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Routes in Sun Wall

Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Predator T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prey T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Bryan Haslam & Harrison Shull (1999); FFA 1st pitch Kris Kline (2000)
Page Views: 109 total · 14/month
Shared By: Lewis L on Feb 27, 2018
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

First Pitch crux is easy to bypass by pulling on gear, making it 5.11 A0.

1. Climb the short arete to the roost, then clip the bolt in the roof. A hard boulder problem (crux) and a juggy eyebrow mantle gets you past the lip. Head up and right, clipping a couple more bolts, to the belay (100')

2. Climb sustained and sketchy eyebrows up through the darker rock passing two bolts to another bolted belay. Gear on this pitch must often be placed from difficult stances. Double ropes would be helpful. (5.11+, 100')

3. A short hand crack leads to a nerve-wracking slab. Follow the obvious water groove - with three bolts - through the bulges above. Easier climbing above for quite a ways to the third belay. (5.10, 180')

4. A full rope length of "5.6" leads to the top. I have not climbed this pitch.

Location

On the far right side of the Raven's Roost roof, just left of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. The bolts on the first pitch are easy to spot.

Protection

Standard LG rack. All belays are bolted. Double 60m rappels get you to the ground.

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