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Routes in Sun Wall
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Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bouffant Curl T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Le Crimp T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mainline Express T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Predator T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prey T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
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Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man (Free) T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Titties and Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Toxic Wasteland T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 35.30308, -82.79529 |
| FA: | Bryan Haslam & Harrison Shull (1999); FFA 1st pitch Kris Kline (2000) |
| Page Views: | 1,270 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Lewis L on Feb 27, 2018 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
First Pitch crux is easy to bypass by pulling on gear, making it 5.11 A0.
1. Climb the short arete to the roost, then clip the bolt in the roof. A hard boulder problem (crux) and a juggy eyebrow mantle gets you past the lip. Head up and right, clipping a couple more bolts, to the belay (100')
2. Climb sustained and sketchy eyebrows up through the darker rock passing two bolts to another bolted belay. Gear on this pitch must often be placed from difficult stances. Double ropes would be helpful. (5.11+, 100')
3. A short hand crack leads to a nerve-wracking slab. Follow the obvious water groove - with three bolts - through the bulges above. Easier climbing above for quite a ways to the third belay. (5.10, 180')
4. A full rope length of "5.6" leads to the top. I have not climbed this pitch.
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