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Routes in Sun Wall

Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Predator T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Andy Kluge, Bruce Burgess, Sat. Patricks Day 1998
Page Views: 735 total · 10/month
Shared By: Phoffmann on Dec 4, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Steep 'brows with techy gear and good holds make this a worthy outing on the far right of the Sun Wall. Head up Southender and get gear high and right of the eyebrow infested wall. Drop back down and blast left over the bulge with good holds and some TCUs. Follow the path of least resistance to a large ledge with a belay on the left side. P2. Crank a bulge to a horizontal and climb great holds to a the bolt belay. Probably will be dirty so bring a brush.

Location

Right of Ruby Tuesday at Southender.
One Rap with two ropes.

Protection

Standard Looking Glass stuff. Med. cams in the belay. Extra TCU's in smaller sizes helpful. Double ropes.

Photos

This route can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope which is how I led it on the FA. Feb 4, 2015

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