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Routes in Sun Wall

Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Predator T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Phil Hoffmann, Brian Williams 2010
Page Views: 1,668 total, 22/month
Shared By: Phoffmann on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

A var. of Patrick Ewing.
Belay at the base of the P. Ewing hand crack.
Climb the hand crack to the 2nd bolt of PE. For Scotty Pippen, go straight up past the 2nd bolt to a 3rd bolt at very crisp positive crimps. Power over the bolt thru shallow bulges and good gear being careful with the "potato chip" hold. Mantle thur another bulge at the base of a final bulge. Clip the bolt and make a long reach to an eyebrow and step over on the low angled face. Climb 5.6 'brows to a good .4 C4 and traverse back left to the gear belay at the top of PE P2. Two #2 camalots are nice at the belay. Finish on PE.

Location

In between Pat Ewing and Nick Danger. Rap the Ruby Tuesday anchors with two 60s.

Protection

Two bolts and gear. 4 bolts total counting the two on PE. Gear belays.

Photos

for a warm winter day of glass heading, you can climb scotty or nick, set an anchor where the routes merge and top rope either one or both. add ruby with an anchor above the steep black streak, run laps on it too and you got 3 great play toys. to break it all down, finish nick to the anchors on irish jig and pull the ruby anchors on the way down. if you're not familiar with the second pitch of nick it is not trivial 5.8 so allow time. Oct 21, 2013
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Fun route on surprisingly positive holds (well mostly). I thought the crux was at the "potato chip" hold (I did it 3 times and it felt the same every go). The move at the last bolt seemed much easier to me. I finished into the upper pitches of Nick Danger. Dec 15, 2011
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
  5.10b
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
  5.10b
This route is a classic! P1 is amazingly well protected, has great movement, no mega runouts, and is generally great! Good stuff Phil and Brian Oct 9, 2011
Will Byrum
  5.10
Will Byrum  
  5.10
Great route. Steep climbing and direct. I like it better than Nick Danger or Pat Ewing. We have found it more convenient to finish on Nick Danger and go to the rap anchors. Oct 5, 2011