Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jeep Gaskin, Julia Gaskin, Whitney Heuermann
Page Views: 1,372 total · 13/month
Shared By: Phoffmann on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Slab up to a right leaning hand crack. Jam crack to it's end and climb face past two bolts. At the 2nd bolt, place gear out left and crux hard left to a great belay ledge with #1/#2 Camalots. 5.10. 80 feet.
P2: From the belay, move back right 10 feet to a slick/featured grove. Place gear at your feet and climb straight up the groove to more gear and better holds. Continue up the groove for 20 more feet and move 10/15 feet left under the bulge into a clean groove aiming for a bolt at the top of the groove. Crux up the steep groove to the bolt and climb 40 feet to a belay under a bulge. 5.10. 80 feet. (I promise its not 150' as mentioned in the guide.)
P3: Traverse right 30 feet to a deep water groove. Stem up the groove until the terrain backs off and move right 100 feet until you can belay from two bolts above Irish Jig. 5.9, 150 feet

Location

Third route left of Southender on the Sun wall. Start at obvious hand crack. Approach from South Face parking area or Nose area. Former is easier.
One two rope rap with 60s from P3 anchors gets you down.

Protection

Singles from 00 to 0. Doubles from .1 to #2 Camalots. Single set stoppers. Long runners or double ropes. All belays are gear except for end of P3.

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