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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 3,459 ft
GPS: 35.304, -82.796 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 70,331 total, 695/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

Description

People use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include Glass Menagerie and the Womb.

Getting There

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of Glass Menagerie.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The Sperm
Trad 4 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Seal
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Creatures of Waste
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Womb
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Whales
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cornflake Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
The Glass I ( Pitch 1 )
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bombelay
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whitney's Excellent Route
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Waverly Waster
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kahntian Ethics
Trad, Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waste Not, Want Not
Trad, Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
The Glass Menagerie
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Sperm 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
The Seal 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Invisible Airwaves 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Creatures of Waste 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
The Womb 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Killer Whales 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Cornflake Crack 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
The Glass I ( Pitch 1 ) 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Safari Jive 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Bombelay 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Whitney's Excellent Route 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Waverly Waster 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Kahntian Ethics 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport
Waste Not, Want Not 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Sport
The Glass Menagerie 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad 7 pitches
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