Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeep Gaskin with either John Borstelmann or Jeff Burton, 1979
Page Views: 12,936 total · 90/month
Shared By: Brian Abram on Oct 17, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A vote here for one of the best 5.10 traditional face climbs in the state! The route climbs in-cut eyebrows and features bomber gear. Begin on a low angle slab that turns into a 80 degree face under a roof. Pull over and left of the roof and continue straight up to a hanging belay, passing several distinct crux moves between gear. The second pitch wanders to the left slightly with a slight runout near the top after the route turns less difficult and more slabby. Finish at a sloping ledge with a double bolt anchor.

The Select guidebook claims the second pitch as the crux, but the first pitch seems to be more sustained and delicate.

Location

Scramble up toward the golden-brown rock to the left of Rat's Ass to an often rattler-infested ledge below Unfinished Concerto. Dinkus Dog begins to the left, off a slab, beneath the right end of a small roof.

Protection

The gear on this climb is very good, with bomber placements at decent stances at least every 10 feet or so. Double Camalots from .3 to 2 works great. The route doesn't wander too much, so long slings aren't really necessary, except maybe on a piece at the roof, of course. There are rings at bolts at the top of the second pitch to rap off of with double 60 meter ropes.

Take 2-3 more Camalots in the .75 to 2 range if you choose to do it all as one pitch.

Photos