Avg: 3.7 from 44 votes
Routes in South Side
|B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jeep Gaskin with either John Borstelmann or Jeff Burton, 1979|
|Page Views:||11,372 total, 92/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Abram on Oct 17, 2007|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionA vote here for one of the best 5.10 traditional face climbs in the state! The route climbs in-cut eyebrows and features bomber gear. Begin on a low angle slab that turns into a 80 degree face under a roof. Pull over and left of the roof and continue straight up to a hanging belay, passing several distinct crux moves between gear. The second pitch wanders to the left slightly with a slight runout near the top after the route turns less difficult and more slabby. Finish at a sloping ledge with a double bolt anchor.
The Select guidebook claims the second pitch as the crux, but the first pitch seems to be more sustained and delicate.
LocationScramble up toward the golden-brown rock to the left of Rat's Ass to an often rattler-infested ledge below Unfinished Concerto. Dinkus Dog begins to the left, off a slab, beneath the right end of a small roof.
ProtectionThe gear on this climb is very good, with bomber placements at decent stances at least every 10 feet or so. Double Camalots from .3 to 2 works great. The route doesn't wander too much, so long slings aren't really necessary, except maybe on a piece at the roof, of course. There are rings at bolts at the top of the second pitch to rap off of with double 60 meter ropes.
Take 2-3 more Camalots in the .75 to 2 range if you choose to do it all as one pitch.