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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeep Gaskin with either John Borstelmann or Jeff Burton, 1979
Page Views: 11,358 total, 92/month
Shared By: Brian Abram on Oct 17, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A vote here for one of the best 5.10 traditional face climbs in the state! The route climbs in-cut eyebrows and features bomber gear. Begin on a low angle slab that turns into a 80 degree face under a roof. Pull over and left of the roof and continue straight up to a hanging belay, passing several distinct crux moves between gear. The second pitch wanders to the left slightly with a slight runout near the top after the route turns less difficult and more slabby. Finish at a sloping ledge with a double bolt anchor.

The Select guidebook claims the second pitch as the crux, but the first pitch seems to be more sustained and delicate.

Location

Scramble up toward the golden-brown rock to the left of Rat's Ass to an often rattler-infested ledge below Unfinished Concerto. Dinkus Dog begins to the left, off a slab, beneath the right end of a small roof.

Protection

The gear on this climb is very good, with bomber placements at decent stances at least every 10 feet or so. Double Camalots from .3 to 2 works great. The route doesn't wander too much, so long slings aren't really necessary, except maybe on a piece at the roof, of course. There are rings at bolts at the top of the second pitch to rap off of with double 60 meter ropes.

Take 2-3 more Camalots in the .75 to 2 range if you choose to do it all as one pitch.
tlacny
Atlanta
  5.10b
tlacny   Atlanta
  5.10b
So I climbed Dinkus Dog on 09-03-16. The North Carolina guidebook gives the 1st pitch a grade of 5.10a and Mountain Project gives the pitch a 5.10-. I do not know if it is height dependent or I am just not used to this style of climbing, but I would rate the 1st pitch at a solid 5.10b with two distinct cruxes, very sustained. The second pitch was not as stout and probably should be rated at 5.10a or even 5.10. Did not find anywhere on the 2nd pitch that was truly run out. The NC guidebook rates the 2nd pitch at 5.10b. Overall the climb was amazing, just questioning the grade of 5.10-. Sep 6, 2016
I was actually on the first ascent of this route with Jeep Gaskin years ago, not Jeff Burton. But it was Jeep's vision and skills that made the route; I was his belayer and encouragement! Jan 7, 2016
nbrown
western NC
  5.10-
nbrown   western NC
  5.10-
Great slab/face route! Agree with Jeep that doing it one pitch is the best way -- makes for one long cool stretch of climbing.

Since I only had one rope today I figured I'd try to get down with just that and it worked out fine with some shenanigans. 3 short and rightward traversing raps, with the last rap being from the anchors on Mettle Detector (just right of Fat Dog). However, it looked easier to simply do 2 raps using the tree half way down and left from the top. But I can't say for sure since I didn't actually do it. Jan 6, 2012
the best way to do dinkus is all in one pitch. most of the smallish gear goes in over the first 50 or so feet and medium gear goes in over the last 70. you'll easily make the double bolt anchors but a second 60m rope is necessary for the rap. a very pleasant outing. Aug 23, 2010
Luke Alford
Atlanta, GA
 
Luke Alford   Atlanta, GA
 
I jumped on this one yesterday for a nice long weekend finishing route. It is definitely my favorite eyebrow route I've climbed on the glass, fun moves the whole way and well protected once you've spent some time plugging eyebrows. I also found the route to be pretty straight forward, a single rope and 2 foot runners posed no rope drag problem (though doubles will save you from having to drag a trailer up for the rappel). The only unpleasant spot was due to my screwing up and making the first belay in a horizontal about 7 feet to the right of where I came up the first pitch. That resulted in a hanging belay that I could have done without, especially after discovering that if I'd pushed it another 5 feet, I would have found the perfect eyebrow that would eat nuts, tri-cams, and cams and allowed a perfectly comfortable stance.

I guess my overall point is that this is an excellent route, poses no serious falling danger, and the eyebrow 4 feet above the horizontal seam for your first belay will save your back, legs, and toes a lot of grief. May 27, 2008
Rob Dillon  
 
One time I was at the Glass and kept finding shiny bail gear with a particular marking- black electrical tape. At the belay 'brow on Dinkus Dog-a keyhole slot a couple feet wide that would take just about any nut on the rack in bomber fashion- the bailers had apparently rapped off a small TCU, crammed over in the pinched-off left corner of the eyebrow. It looked like an A3 placement at best. Next to this, of course, was the kind of no-brainer slot at which any gumby with half a brain could merely wave a biner full of nuts and enjoy a trucker belay off the half-dozen stoppers trapped behind the lip.

Anyhow, the route is among the best around and if it's in your range, you should give it a go. Maybe I'm just a chickenshit but I wandered all over the place on the first pitch and recall wishing I had double ropes. Oct 18, 2007