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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FFA: Hot Henry Barber, 1976 FA: Art Williams, Mike Holloway 1972
Page Views: 13,265 total, 98/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Is this the best crack climb in the state, or just on the Glass? First freed by Henry Barber on one of his burning-off-the-locals tours in the '70s, this one remains an enduring classic. Whether you, too, will endure remains to be seen.

Also known as a good place to learn to aid climb, in the same way the Louvre is known as a good place to read.

P1: Climb up a couple body lengths to a short undercling roof. Plug some gear, take a deep breath, and scurry across to solid fingerlocks around the corner. Layback up this on more locks to a rest, then surmount a series of well-protected boulder problems until a tricky step right gains a belay stance. 5.11a, 80'.

P2: Crane your neck upward and suss out the corner as it leans dramatically rightward overhead. Although the corner itself is disturbingly blank, a finger-sized crack in the left wall saves the day. Crank and stem your way upward with good gear until the corner kicks back and opens up to accept fingers, widening to off-hands under a 1' overlap. A desperate 'rest' stance may remind you of endless trials on unrelenting Valley cracks-- you might be able to crank off that layback, you might fall trying, but you sure as hell can't stay here for long! Dig deep and fire for the hand jams leading to a widening flake and the best belay ledge on the Glass, at least when it's dry. Most people rap from here. 5.11a, 100'

P3: Greenish flakes contiue to the top, 5.10b, 60'.

Location

Left end of the steep part of the North Face. Look for a right-facing corner with a short undercling near the bottom. If this is wet, you may want to keep walking.

Protection

Stoppers, 2 each TCUs, and a double set of cams to 3", with a 3.5" as well. 2 ropes. Fixed anchors.

DESCENT: 2 ropes from the top of P2 get you to the ground; if climbing P3, a single-rope rap from a tree will get you back to the ledge.
CDC
CDC  
As stated previous by NB. I always thought if you do pitch 3 after 1&2 that it felt like the crux! This by no means takes anything away from the first 2 which are in your face but classic! Nov 27, 2016
mattjohnson
Laurens, SC
  5.11a/b
mattjohnson   Laurens, SC
  5.11a/b
Fun, beautiful, and awesome for the entire climb. Don't expect it to ease up in difficulty on pitch 3 though May 10, 2015
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
Single 80 meter gets you down Sep 23, 2012
Monkey-sa  
 
Link it all in one super pitch and this is easily one of the best 5.11 routes out there. Sustained, Splitter and Beautiful. Aug 27, 2012
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Shoot-dang this route is good, man. Varied and interesting the whole way. It was a little wet and dirty yesterday but that only made it that much more fun. Certainly rivals wunsch's dihedral in Colorado as the best 11 crack climb I've done. May 25, 2012
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.11-
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.11-
So much fun. Did in two pitches w/ nbrown today. P1 has a low crux with bomb gear, then tricky face climbing with a few more finger locks before the bolts. P2 is more like 10+ but is probably more fun (and more sustained). Stem, Stem, Stem... Oct 27, 2011
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Phil, this is an easy route to link pitches on; you can rest as long as you want at the P-1 belay stance before continuing up. Also, I usually tag up the gear, including the belay cams, for the next bit at this point by attaching it to the end of the rope (no need for a tag line while soloing). The 3rd pitch is the REAL crux... May 5, 2011
In response (2 years late) to the first comment. I built a belay right at the edge of the ledge with #3. #3.5, #4 camalots. I trailed a rope and had my second tag them up when I completed the pitch. Easy anchor and good communication the whole way with the second. People have been crushing this route lately in one long pitch! Nuts! Mar 22, 2011
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.11
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.11
Insanely good. Runner the piece in the undercling roof well; my rope was threatening to get wedged in the crack for the whole pitch, which made the tenuous slab moves up higher pretty scary. Sep 7, 2010
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
There is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of P-3, behind the large dead hemlock. Jul 14, 2010
In 35 years of climbing this still rates as the best 5.11 trad climb in my book. Way better than the Naked Edge. Aug 28, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
F'ing rad route, and in no way comparable to a Valley climb...it's much better.

Why no bolts at the end of pitch 2? I had to rig a ridiculous 20 foot tether to the big tree that made it impossible to give a tight belay. Why are top-ropers treated better than lead climbers around here? Jul 27, 2009