Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dan Caldwell, Dave Sharratt,and Richard Burnett
Page Views: 3,652 total · 40/month
Shared By: Adam Tripp on Nov 22, 2016
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

An excellent route stacked with high quality, sustained, and challenging pitches, more interesting and probably more difficult than the Glass Menagerie. A good strategy is to haul a ledge to the hanging belay at the top of the second pitch (leave it here as you can collect it rappelling the route on the descent). Thanks to Dan Caldwell for having the vision and equipping the route. More info on the FA in this article: climbing.com/news/major-new…

Pitch 1: (5.11a) See description for the Glass I (first pitch): mountainproject.com/v/the-g…

Pitch 2: (5.12d) Gain a flake that traverses left, then up, then back left. This pitch is relatively short but packs a lot of moves into the boulder problem crux, involving tenuous underclings, small feet, and big moves, finishing with a jug over the lip
Gear: smallest C3/X4 to #2 C4

Pitch 3: (5.13a) Step up into the gaping maw of the huge flake above your head and undercling/layback this thing to where it goes vertical. Clip a bolt on the flake and continue the strenuous layback up the flake till it terminates where it is finally narrow enough to place a cam. Make a big reach into a horizontal in the face, place gear, and continue through pumpy face face moves, more gear and finally a bolt. The crux is above, made more difficult by the sustained face climbing below.
Leave the bolt and climb through slopers, thin crimps, underclings, and high steps, typical of the Looking Glass style, but tilted back more than usual. After one more bolt and gear you reach the anchors.
Gear: smallest X4/C3 to #3 C4. 3 bolts. A #6 C4 is nice right above the belay, but not necessary.

Pitch 4: (5.12a) This pitch is one of the best at the Glass. Leave the belay and pull a roof with a bolt at your waist. Continue through a series of flaring crack and facey/stem moves past gear and more bolts until you can traverse left into a nice crack protected by gear. After some very nice crack climbing, there is a final mantel crux to gain the belay ledge.
Gear: blue TCU to #1 C4. 7 bolts. Extras in the 0.5 C4 size are useful.

Pitch 5: (5.10) A long pitch involving a wide crack, face climbing, and some bolts....To be honest, I have not climbed this one, so good luck.
Gear: full rack, at least 2 bolts, maybe more.

Location Suggest change

Starts to the left of the Peregrine Roof and follows the obvious huge flake system to the top of the wall.

Rap the route with a single 70

Protection Suggest change

smallest C3/X4 to at least a #3 C4 (a #4 might be useful on the 5th pitch). A #6 C4 is nice right above the belay starting the 3rd pitch, but not necessary.

All anchors have double bolt anchors with rap rings.