Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Dan Caldwell, Dave Sharratt,and Richard Burnett|
|Page Views:||2,846 total · 46/month|
|Shared By:||Adam Tripp on Nov 22, 2016|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
Pitch 1: (5.11a) See description for the Glass I (first pitch): mountainproject.com/v/the-g…
Pitch 2: (5.12d) Gain a flake that traverses left, then up, then back left. This pitch is relatively short but packs a lot of moves into the boulder problem crux, involving tenuous underclings, small feet, and big moves, finishing with a jug over the lip
Gear: smallest C3/X4 to #2 C4
Pitch 3: (5.13a) Step up into the gaping maw of the huge flake above your head and undercling/layback this thing to where it goes vertical. Clip a bolt on the flake and continue the strenuous layback up the flake till it terminates where it is finally narrow enough to place a cam. Make a big reach into a horizontal in the face, place gear, and continue through pumpy face face moves, more gear and finally a bolt. The crux is above, made more difficult by the sustained face climbing below.
Leave the bolt and climb through slopers, thin crimps, underclings, and high steps, typical of the Looking Glass style, but tilted back more than usual. After one more bolt and gear you reach the anchors.
Gear: smallest X4/C3 to #3 C4. 3 bolts. A #6 C4 is nice right above the belay, but not necessary.
Pitch 4: (5.12a) This pitch is one of the best at the Glass. Leave the belay and pull a roof with a bolt at your waist. Continue through a series of flaring crack and facey/stem moves past gear and more bolts until you can traverse left into a nice crack protected by gear. After some very nice crack climbing, there is a final mantel crux to gain the belay ledge.
Gear: blue TCU to #1 C4. 7 bolts. Extras in the 0.5 C4 size are useful.
Pitch 5: (5.10) A long pitch involving a wide crack, face climbing, and some bolts....To be honest, I have not climbed this one, so good luck.
Gear: full rack, at least 2 bolts, maybe more.
Rap the route with a single 70