Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dan Caldwell, Dave Sharratt,and Richard Burnett
Page Views: 1,505 total · 60/month
Shared By: Adam Tripp on Nov 22, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

An excellent route stacked with high quality, sustained, and challenging pitches, more interesting and probably more difficult than the Glass Menagerie. A good strategy is to haul a ledge to the hanging belay at the top of the second pitch (leave it here as you can collect it rappelling the route on the descent). Thanks to Dan Caldwell for having the vision and equipping the route. More info on the FA in this article: climbing.com/news/major-new…

Pitch 1: (5.11a) See description for the Glass I (first pitch): mountainproject.com/v/the-g…

Pitch 2: (5.12d) Gain a flake that traverses left, then up, then back left. This pitch is relatively short but packs a lot of moves into the boulder problem crux, involving tenuous underclings, small feet, and big moves, finishing with a jug over the lip
Gear: smallest C3/X4 to #2 C4

Pitch 3: (5.13a) Step up into the gaping maw of the huge flake above your head and undercling/layback this thing to where it goes vertical. Clip a bolt on the flake and continue the strenuous layback up the flake till it terminates where it is finally narrow enough to place a cam. Make a big reach into a horizontal in the face, place gear, and continue through pumpy face face moves, more gear and finally a bolt. The crux is above, made more difficult by the sustained face climbing below.
Leave the bolt and climb through slopers, thin crimps, underclings, and high steps, typical of the Looking Glass style, but tilted back more than usual. After one more bolt and gear you reach the anchors.
Gear: smallest X4/C3 to #3 C4. 3 bolts. A #6 C4 is nice right above the belay, but not necessary.

Pitch 4: (5.12a) This pitch is one of the best at the Glass. Leave the belay and pull a roof with a bolt at your waist. Continue through a series of flaring crack and facey/stem moves past gear and more bolts until you can traverse left into a nice crack protected by gear. After some very nice crack climbing, there is a final mantel crux to gain the belay ledge.
Gear: blue TCU to #1 C4. 7 bolts. Extras in the 0.5 C4 size are useful.

Pitch 5: (5.10) A long pitch involving a wide crack, face climbing, and some bolts....To be honest, I have not climbed this one, so good luck.
Gear: full rack, at least 2 bolts, maybe more.

Location

Starts to the left of the Peregrine Roof and follows the obvious huge flake system to the top of the wall.

Rap the route with a single 70

Protection

smallest C3/X4 to at least a #3 C4 (a #4 might be useful on the 5th pitch). A #6 C4 is nice right above the belay starting the 3rd pitch, but not necessary.

All anchors have double bolt anchors with rap rings.

Photos

Lohan
Young Harris, GA
  5.13a
Lohan   Young Harris, GA
  5.13a
Does this route top out? Aug 15, 2017
Lucas
Asheville, NC
Lucas   Asheville, NC
This route does top out....although it's an arduous hike back to the car from the top. You can rapp the route with a single 70m. Aug 19, 2017
Dan Caldwell and crew tried not to bolt any of the aid lines that cross the glass eye. Aka Carolina hardcore ecstasy. So at the top they bolted a final direct pitch that was a hard Boulder problem on real bad rock. From the last belay on the small sloping ledge there is an old aid line that traverses it to the right, moves up into a dihedral and then the glory crack to the top. I had rappeled in and found a couple bat hook holes on it moving to the crack. The day dan and I went up and I redpointed the 3rd and 4th pitches I told dan about the bat hooks and said the corner would go around 10+\11- he aided out and sank the bolts.
Pitch 5: 5.10+ traverse that ledge to the right and move up into the dihedral. Then make some magic happen to gain the crack above it. From what I remember it felt more like I was in an offwidth then a dihedral. Not straight forward. The finish is harder and more run out then the menagerie.

Pat goodman's name should be changed with dan caldwells name. Pat held dave's rope. Dan's vision and hard work turned that chunk of rock into a sick ass rock climb. Thanks dan! Feb 5, 2018