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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Andy Kluge, Becky Barth 2000
Page Views: 3,794 total, 47/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Apr 12, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is a long and very involved climb. There are many thought provoking moves and a few butt-clenchers for good measure. If you like friction climbing and hard eye-brows this is for you. This is also one of the first climbs to dry on the left side of the North Face.

Start in a flared hand crack in a left facing shallow dihedral. Move up this moderate crack to its top and traverse left to a very short right facing dihedral. Step up and move right for about 25' on a good ledge to the base of a series of bulges (double ropes are great here). Pull through about three bulges using big eyebrows and lots of sloped knobs. At the final ledge before the bolt, move back left almost directly below the first bolt. Get good gear here and make a committing move to a good stance to clip the first bolt. The next section is sustained technical friction. Follow the line of bolts and plug a few pieces in between until you reach the fourth bolt. From the fourth bolt move up and left to a faint gray streak with great edges. Plug a few more pieces and bust into the Sperm's crack right before the anchors on the Sperm's second pitch. Shake those legs out whenever you can!

Location

Start 20' right of the Sperm at the obvious fist crack in a flared dihedral. Rappel with two 60m ropes to the ground or swing right to Deep Throats first pitch anchors with a single 60m rope and make two rappels.

Protection

Single rack to #3 Camalot with doubles from purple TCU to red or black metolius. Tri-cams and nuts can also be used in several spots. Many long runners and draws. Double ropes are mandatory.

Photos

rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
  5.10c
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
  5.10c
Do not do this with one rope unless you want to really suffer. Had to cut to the crack about 15 feet from the anchors because i needed one hand to pull up slack

Great route with challenging route finding and unbelievable slab goodness. Great gear between bolts, bring a ton of slings. After the fourth bolt im unsure where this route actually goes. 5.10 terrain if you go left and ride the blackish dike as described or if you track up right, like i did, you get a couple good small cams but it gets hard and insecure fast not to mention run out. Oct 24, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Be sure to extend most of the gear. I brought 14 slings and draws and used all of them counting the anchor. I clipped a few pieces direct, but if you want to sew it up without drag I would recommend more than 14. Apr 12, 2011