Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m)|
|FA:||Andy Kluge, Becky Barth 2000|
|Page Views:||5,113 total · 40/month|
|Shared By:||Tom Caldwell on Apr 12, 2011|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
Start in a flared hand crack in a left facing shallow dihedral. Move up this moderate crack to its top and traverse left to a very short right facing dihedral. Step up and move right for about 25' on a good ledge to the base of a series of bulges (double ropes are great here). Pull through about three bulges using big eyebrows and lots of sloped knobs. At the final ledge before the bolt, move back left almost directly below the first bolt. Get good gear here and make a committing move to a good stance to clip the first bolt. The next section is sustained technical friction. Follow the line of bolts and plug a few pieces in between until you reach the fourth bolt. From the fourth bolt move up and left to a faint gray streak with great edges. Plug a few more pieces and bust into the Sperm's crack right before the anchors on the Sperm's second pitch. Shake those legs out whenever you can!