Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Andy Kluge, Becky Barth 2000
Page Views: 4,126 total · 44/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Apr 12, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This is a long and very involved climb. There are many thought provoking moves and a few butt-clenchers for good measure. If you like friction climbing and hard eye-brows this is for you. This is also one of the first climbs to dry on the left side of the North Face.

Start in a flared hand crack in a left facing shallow dihedral. Move up this moderate crack to its top and traverse left to a very short right facing dihedral. Step up and move right for about 25' on a good ledge to the base of a series of bulges (double ropes are great here). Pull through about three bulges using big eyebrows and lots of sloped knobs. At the final ledge before the bolt, move back left almost directly below the first bolt. Get good gear here and make a committing move to a good stance to clip the first bolt. The next section is sustained technical friction. Follow the line of bolts and plug a few pieces in between until you reach the fourth bolt. From the fourth bolt move up and left to a faint gray streak with great edges. Plug a few more pieces and bust into the Sperm's crack right before the anchors on the Sperm's second pitch. Shake those legs out whenever you can!

Location

Start 20' right of the Sperm at the obvious fist crack in a flared dihedral. Rappel with two 60m ropes to the ground or swing right to Deep Throats first pitch anchors with a single 60m rope and make two rappels.

Protection

Single rack to #3 Camalot with doubles from purple TCU to red or black metolius. Tri-cams and nuts can also be used in several spots. Many long runners and draws. Double ropes are mandatory.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.10c
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.10c
Be sure to extend most of the gear. I brought 14 slings and draws and used all of them counting the anchor. I clipped a few pieces direct, but if you want to sew it up without drag I would recommend more than 14. Apr 12, 2011
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
  5.10c
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
  5.10c
Do not do this with one rope unless you want to really suffer. Had to cut to the crack about 15 feet from the anchors because i needed one hand to pull up slack

Great route with challenging route finding and unbelievable slab goodness. Great gear between bolts, bring a ton of slings. After the fourth bolt im unsure where this route actually goes. 5.10 terrain if you go left and ride the blackish dike as described or if you track up right, like i did, you get a couple good small cams but it gets hard and insecure fast not to mention run out. Oct 24, 2011