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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bruce Burgess, Andy Kluge
Page Views: 3,269 total, 32/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Aug 18, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fantastic face route climbing a clean white face on perfect rock with athletic moves. It follows the natural features, so tends to wander a bit. There is a tough spot in the first two bolts then a good shake where you can place a small tcu before a deceiving move left. Get a real good shake at a circlehead (can place a yellow TCU here as well), then bust straight right campusing on half-pad crimps. The crux may be clipping the last bolt...maybe you should skip it??

Location

On the North Face of Looking Glass. This is the next route left of the Menagerie, or the second route on the left after you come up the trail. Look for a line of bolts.

Protection

Mostly bolts, but you'll need a handful of TCU's to fill in the blanks. There are a number of spots before the first bolt where decking is a real possibility, and a ledge fall is possible between the 1st and 2nd bolts.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.12a
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.12a
There is a trick to clipping the last hanging draw. Move past it to the better hand and clip. Don't skip it. Thanks Eric! Jul 15, 2015
Theres an awesome link up that goes up the first part of this climb (past the bolts) traverse left and finish on Creatures of Waste (5.11+). Five stars, hands down. Aug 27, 2012
That sling was made by Nathan Brown in his garage. Thanks Nathan!

To reduce the "R" factor some, a bomber blue Metolius TCU goes in the horizontal smack dab in the middle of the face about 15' from the ground. The TCU or Red C3 is crucial due to the shape of the crack round it. Apr 9, 2011
Eric Singleton
Brevard,NC
Eric Singleton   Brevard,NC
Yeh that sling was replaced by Philip Hoffman of Looking Glass Outfitters. Thanks Phil! Oct 23, 2010
Chase Roskos
Golden, CO
Chase Roskos   Golden, CO
There was an old ratty sling on the last bolt before the anchors, but this has been updated with a nice shiny fixed draw. Sep 10, 2010