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Routes in North Side
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Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ |
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Blue Steel Throbber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R |
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Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Brain Dead T A4 |
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Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Carolina Hog Farm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 PG13 |
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Cornflake Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 |
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Deep Cycle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Delapidated T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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House of Cards Var. A3- |
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Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Invisible Airways T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 |
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Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Menagerie Direct T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Practice Aid Route T,TR A2 |
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Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Seal, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R |
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Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Toxic Masculinity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ PG13 |
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Unknown (just left of Safari Jive) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Waste Not, Want Not T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zombie Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+ R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Whitney Huermann, Jeff Burton, Max Bradburn, Lyle Dean |
| Page Views: | 152 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Dylan Valvo on Aug 6, 2022 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
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Description
Pitch 1 start on the glass menagerie and climb up till the ledge is out right. Instead of going right keep going up and gain a bolt. Of this bolt do a pendulum into a corner out left where you will climb up to a bolted belay 5.11 A2
Pitch 2&3 leave the belay on some bat hooks and gain the thin seam that every now and then opens into a crack. Both belays are bolted. Lots of super tiny heads and some tipped out micro beaking
Pitch 4 head out the steep roof with some fun hooking and great exposure A3+
Pitch 5 Head up the crack traversing left to gain the meat grinder and climb this till it’s end. Make a belay at the end of the meat grinder. 5.11 or c1?
Pitch 6 free climb and clean aid on bad cams out the roof using the flared crack till you can make a tricky and dangerous mantle. Traverse edges left into Diamond in the Muff. Eventually you trend right finishing on the slab to the summit C2 5.11 The topo shows this pitch going straight up from the roof…. The description above is already dangerous and if you blow it free climbing before getting to Diamond in the muff you will crater onto the slab below very hard. Go straight up is a suicide mission. I top roped this section on the way down and it’s hard climbing (11+) with no protection making for a super X rated pitch. The sensible exit is to take the 5.9 crack at the end of The GM.
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