Type: Trad, Aid, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches, Grade V
FA: Whitney Huermann, Jeff Burton, Max Bradburn, Lyle Dean
Page Views: 411 total · 18/month
Shared By: Dylan Valvo on Aug 6, 2022
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 start on the glass menagerie and climb up till the ledge is out right. Instead of going right keep going up and gain a bolt. Of this bolt do a pendulum into a corner out left where you will climb up to a bolted belay 5.11 A2
Pitch 2&3 leave the belay on some bat hooks and gain the thin seam that every now and then opens into a crack. Both belays are bolted. Lots of super tiny heads and some tipped out micro beaking
Pitch 4 head out the steep roof with some fun hooking and great exposure A3+
Pitch 5 Head up the crack traversing left to gain the meat grinder and climb this till it’s end. Make a belay at the end of the meat grinder. 5.11 or c1?
Pitch 6 free climb and clean aid on bad cams out the roof using the flared crack till you can make a tricky and dangerous mantle. Traverse edges left into Diamond in the Muff. Eventually you trend right finishing on the slab to the summit C2 5.11 The topo shows this pitch going straight up from the roof…. The description above is already dangerous and if you blow it free climbing before getting to Diamond in the muff you will crater onto the slab below very hard. Go straight up is a suicide mission. I top roped this section on the way down and it’s hard climbing (11+) with no protection making for a super X rated pitch. The sensible exit is to take the 5.9 crack at the end of The GM.

Location Suggest change

Starts on The GM center of wall

Protection Suggest change

One rivet hanger
Double rack of cams to 5”
3 small beaks 2 medium 1 large
2 lost arrows
2 knife blades
Hooks
Bat hooks
Couple rurps
Heads and circle heads from teeny tiny to big

Photos

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