Type: Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jeff Burton & Todd Wells
Page Views: 1,535 total · 32/month
Shared By: Dylan Valvo on Jun 28, 2020
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

As of today this is the north face of LGR’s newest complete route going to to the top of the main wall. An interesting line through one of the wildest sections on the wall done by a couple of the south’s most prolific aid climbers. These guys have already put some serious work in and have been climbing on this wall since the hay day.

Pitch 1 Climb Waste Not Want  Not to gain the Waste Ledge. Yell “waste” loud AF 5.10 C1 or 5.12

Pitch 2 From the last bolt on waste not want (the directional bolt) angle right and up aiming for a corner which is the end of the first pitch of Rowans Route. Hit the corner and climb the ledge right to the anchors. This is The Pirate Pitch so bring a couple hooks and keep em with you for the rest of the route. A3

Pitch 3 Finally all those Cotillion classes you took will come in handy. Wipe the sardine chunks off your mustache, holster your pistol, and put that spliff out. This is the Gentleman’s Pitch where you will climb on rivets, heads, and hooks with 2 bolts thrown in the mix. Journey left off the ledge (right is RR) climbing through a blocky section on mainly small heads then into the radically steep wave above. It’s best to skip the first belay you get to but if you are fixin and firing be mindful as a 60m could prob stretch you to the ground from the next one up but you might not get the rope back when you come off the rap. A 70m works fine from the above station though. “A0+“ ;)

Pitch 4 This is the crux pitch of the route. The Soy Boy Headwall. Leave the belay on heads and rurps to gain The Scythe. Be careful transferring to this feature as there is a loose flake that blends in on the wall that would most likely leave you with a bleeding belayer or worse if knocked off. Climb the scythe to its apex and transfer back onto a string of heads and hooks with a couple rivets thrown in the mix. A3+

Pitch 5 Exit the belay left and ease across the sloping ledge to gain the beautiful seam/crack that is the end of Brain Wall. Climb this to the top using small heads, units, hooks, and more eventually exiting the seam on hooks and escaping to a lone bolt belay. Another anchor can be made in a crack with large cams and the bolt can back it all up. From there escape to the woods out left. A3

Either hike off or go down a rappel that you already have done or know. Not the place for adventure rappelling.

Location Suggest change

Starts right of IA left of RR

Protection Suggest change

Bring a standard double Carolina rack to number 2 with a extras in the small size. Offsets can be nice. A good handful of rurps and a few small peckers. A talon and a second bat hook tool of your choice as well as a cliff hanger. Whatever else you think you will need for several A3 pitches. To each their own. A variety from small to medium coppers and circles in case one or more blows out.