Type: Trad, Aid, 310 ft (94 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Forrest Gardner & Shannon Stegg 1985
Page Views: 1,300 total · 29/month
Shared By: Dylan Valvo on Oct 24, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

This is a rather visionary line considering it was established in 1985. Great free climbing, fun aid, and very few holes placed in the rock. Maybe the fewest of NF LGR aid routes? When this was established there were no micro cams to bring you security on the upper pitches .Old school hard aid tactics got them up this route. It’s much more tame with the tools we have today. 
Pitch 1: Climb up right facing corner traversing under the roof and then back up on a short flake system to a slab past two bolts. Then continue following the corner system right and upwards to a sloping ledge where you will find one SS bolt and a couple others that are old but good shape. This pitch is super fun mixture of free and clean. Cam hooks make it happen. 100’ 5.10 C1
Pitch 2: The sport climbing of A4. Climb through an eternal string of wires equalizing many various sized circle heads with one bolt in the middle. Eventually eye brows open back up and you will place cams for a bit. You can belay just above and right of the small roof or continue up 25’ to a smaller set of eyebrows that will take good gear. 150’ A4
Pitch 3: Continue clean aiding up eyebrows above belay as they grow substantially eventually gaining a right leaning crack then jump out of your aiders and scramble to the top. 60’ C1/A1
Rap Grand slam of sheep or down the twisted laurel gulley

Location Suggest change

This route is located on “the nose” of the NS far climbers right. It is the aspect you see best from the parking lot as you get your day going. The first pitch starts in the right facing dihedral in the pictures

Protection Suggest change

This route goes clean if all the heads stay in place. Bring a variety of circles from small to big with some duckbills in case one or 20 blow. A triple rack of 00-.4, doubles .5-2, 2 medium cam hooks, tricams and lots of tie offs/slings for equalizing heads. A single #3 might be nice on pitch one but is far from necessary.

Photos

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