Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Adam Taylor
Page Views: 852 total · 25/month
Shared By: Casserly on Apr 1, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Pumpy and kinda awkward gear protected climbing right off the belay moving right through overlaps. The first of 3 bolts is very hard to hang on RP as it was bolted for aids. A few deep tugs bring you to a good horizontal rest before a fierce and crimpy crux though the flaring crack. More pumpy gear protected climbing with good whip potential brings you to the anchors of the open book.

Location

This route climbs directly off the anchors from the top of the Glass Menagerie 1st pitch. It's listed in the guide as an aids variation to the Open Book and also skips the chossy P2 traverse. Climbs up and right through overlaps and flared bolt protected crack and meets up with the anchors of the Open Book pitch. Recently discovered you can rap to the ground with a single 80M from the anchors.

Protection

cams from red c3 - #2 camalot
3 bolts
bolted anchors with rap rings

Photos

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Casserly
  5.13a/b
Casserly  
  5.13a/b
This pitch has been linked into a full redpoint of the Glass Menagerie bumping the grade up a bit. Go do it! Apr 1, 2016