Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: FA: Whitney Heuermann FFA: Jacob Ward 2023
Page Views: 358 total · 32/month
Shared By: Jacob Ward on Jun 28, 2023
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

Can't believe this never got done! It climbs the face directly under the anchors of Waverly Waster, and is a totally independent line except for the last 10 feet that it shares with Menagerie to Waverly. The story I heard from Bruce Burgess is that Whitney Heuermann aided and bolted it in the 90s, but it never got sent and eventually Bruce took the hangers off the bolts since no one was climbing it. I did a 1 for 1 replacement of the old rusty bolts didn't add any new ones where there wasn't a bolt already. 

The movent is super cool. It's not very hard up to the crux except for one tricky slab move at the first bolt, but the crux is a long sequence from the crescent feature at the 3rd bolt all the way to the 4th bolt. A long rightward span move from the crescent leads you to some hard crimping with marginal smedges for feet. I was fully spanned out with a 5'8" wingspan, so someone with shorter arms will probably have to use different beta that might make it feel more like 5.13 for them.

Location Suggest change

Just left of the Menagerie, shares anchors with Waverly Waster.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts and some optional smedium sized cams. The first bolt is quite high, there's some gear on the way to it that looked like maybe .3-.75 although I didn't place it. There's an optional .5 between bolts 2 and 3, but it's behind a slightly questionable block so use your judgement. The climbing isn't that hard there anyway. Big whip potential at the crux so heads up, it's a clean fall though. Can easily be toproped by climbing Waverly Waster or Menagerie to Waverly first.