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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Maury Birdwell, John Averette
Page Views: 1,988 total, 39/month
Shared By: MauryB on Oct 16, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

The free version to the first pitch of Howling Kahn. Wonderful and engaging movement culminating in a fantastic gear protected crux. An incredible find, particularly amazing it lay dormant despite being the plumb line one rappels from the anchors of Whitney's!

Location

The next series of climbable features and corners to the right of Whitney's Excellent Route. Start with some head's up slab to gain your first piece of gear then aim for the bolts protecting the initial sequence of difficult moves. After the 4th bolt follow the hollow flake system up into the right arching corner which leads to a two bolt anchor.

Protection

4 bolts plus gear (SR). Anchors.

Photos

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MauryB
Boulder, CO
 
MauryB   Boulder, CO
 
Also worth noting that it looks like the next 30 feet or so would go free with a considerable effort from some strong monkeys. Aug 25, 2014
Thanks for the review, Abel. To answer your question, we did not put the anchor there--it was put there buy the first aid ascentionists. We just opted to end our pitch out right there due to the utter badassedness of those last few moves. The climber still maintains the option of escaping onto Whitney's anchors. As far as the fixed nuts and bashies go, those are relics from the Howling Kahn's first aid ascent (i think back in the nineties)and I would not advise relying upon them for purposes other than aid or adornment. Oct 24, 2013
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
Wow... from the slab on up through many wild moves and a baddass finish. Very good addition and amazing it had been overlooked for so long. Currently many fixed nuts that give it a nice sporty feel and a single set is sufficient. Did you guys place the anchor? If so that's a wild place to put it.... just my thoughts... but it would be lame if you didn't have to do that final wildness. It stacks up with the classics around it real nice. Oct 23, 2013