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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 110 ft, Grade IV
FA: Whitney Heuermann, Jeff Burton, Lyle Dean
Page Views: 1,237 total, 61/month
Shared By: Barrett Pauer on Mar 27, 2016
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Excellent Route! Beta is for P-1 only. Crux down low up to first bolt and again near the top. Take two ropes

Location

This route is located between Invisible and Creatures. Look for a clean right facing corner, it's hard to miss

Protection

Take beaks, RURPS, a blade maybe, cams/stoppers up to .5 camalot, heads to replace blown/missing heads, multiple bathooks so be sure to take a selection of hooks

Photos

Little more beta one the route as of winter 2016. I soloed it over a total of 3 days of climbing. But I fixed ropes and came down in-between climbing days on route.

Pitch one: See above description. Crux for me was getting to the first bolt. Exciting hooking to a bugaboo that will keep you off the ground for a little bit. Had a hook start to shift off while top stepping and took a golf swing with my hammer to reset it. After the first bolt you at least won't hit the ground. Definitely bring two talon hooks and I've heard of people using a crash pad or two.

Pitch two: Mental crux of the route, felt way scarier than pitch one. You just won't hit anything when you rip the pitch. Took a 40 foot factor two fall onto the belay. Ya, this pitch is on from the get go. Bring heads, circle heads, rurps, beaks, two talons, and a cliffhanger. Sorry, I snapped the cable off a rurp, so get creative. Also, be prepared for multiple 20ft bat hook ladders followed by 20 feet of circle heads (mental crux). The bat hook holes were full of mud and really hard to find. The top seeps real bad and hypothermia is reaisin winter.

Pitch three: Best pitch of the route! Once you find it. Ignore my heads going straight up (sorry) and traverse about 15 feet left. Hooks, beaks, heads, and maybe some cams get you up the pitch. Bring multiple cliffhangers.

Pitch four: Worst pitch of my life. Finally bust out that double rack of cams to 3 you drug up this thing, and still keep the iron. The water groove is deep and dirty, resulting in placing gear 2 feet apart simply because you can't top step..or second...or third step. Be prepared to do 5.10 mantels out of the top of your aiders, then transition back to aid. For an idea of the misery of this pitch, I averaged 1.5 hours pitch on the first three to lead. This one took 4 hours! I also fell 3 times, twice more than the rest of the route. Ran out of gear even after leapfrogging and had to lower and back clean. This sucker is long! But don't bail after pitch 3, go for the summit! Gear anchor.
Pitch five: free solo to the trees May 27, 2016
trr2ke Reed
Cookeville, Tennessee
trr2ke Reed   Cookeville, Tennessee
I'm glad to hear this route is getting some traffic. Maybe I'll hit it up as well. May 24, 2016
Barrett Pauer
Brevard, NC
 
Barrett Pauer   Brevard, NC
 
The heads are in decent shape now, this pitch has seen two ascents this year so the bad ones have already pulled. You still should test all heads and be prepared to place your own. I would say the top is the crux now because I broke a wire on a head and didn't have anything to clean it with so I got on a really tipped out beak and that worked well enough. Get after it! Mar 29, 2016
Chase Bowman
Baton Rouge/Durango
Chase Bowman   Baton Rouge/Durango
What is condition of the fixed heads? The ones that I saw looked to be in pretty bad shape. Mar 29, 2016
Chase Bowman
Baton Rouge/Durango
Chase Bowman   Baton Rouge/Durango
Hell yeah Barrett, after walking past this thing a hundred times I had to give it a try. Bailed on the first bolt. The start is terrifying. Way to get after it! Mar 29, 2016