All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > N Side

Captain Kangaroo

Name: Captain Kangaroo
Rating: 3.3

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in North Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
	Blue Steel Throbber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R
	Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Brain Dead T A4
	Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Carolina Hog Farm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
	Cornflake Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
	Deep Cycle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Delapidated T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	House of Cards Var. A3-
	Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
	Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
	Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
	Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
	Seal, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
	Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Toxic Masculinity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ PG13
	Unknown (just left of Safari Jive) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Waste Not, Want Not T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA:	CK
Page Views:	1,559 total · 18/month
Shared By:	nbrown on Sep 17, 2014
Admins:	Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This route combines a lot of different styles in one long pitch to the Peregrine roof, and it's all free at only 5.11. The climbing up high (and out of sight from ground) is excellent and makes this route very worthwhile.

Start as far right as you can go before heading up the hill/gully.

Climb a short section of dirty rock to a bolt. Moderate moves up and slightly right get you to a moderate face with great hidden gear. Climb the face to merge directly into the left-facing corner of "Chieftans". Follow this cool, albeit dirty and awkward corner up to a roof (strenuous here). "Chieftans" moves left along flakes, but you'll want to pull straight through roof and into the hanging corner. Clip a bolt above the roof (new) before coming out of the chimney. Also, be sure to sling your last couple of pieces in the chimney long.

Once in the hanging corner, climb past another bolt to gain the very techy face above. The face is protected by 4 more bolts and two small cams (#0-1 TCU). Follow amazing crimps past 4 more bolts and 2 small cams (#0 to 1 TCU) to a bolted belay at the Peregrine Roof.

Bring extra slings for the lower half of the route.

Rap with one 70m rope but watch ends. Or rap down and left to Guillotine anchors.