Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: CK
Page Views: 918 total · 17/month
Shared By: nbrown on Sep 17, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This route combines a lot of different styles in one long pitch to the Peregrine roof, and it's all free at only 5.11. The climbing up high (and out of sight from ground) is excellent and makes this route very worthwhile.

Start as far right as you can go before heading up the hill/gully.

Climb a short section of dirty rock to a bolt. Moderate moves up and slightly right get you to a moderate face with great hidden gear. Climb the face to merge directly into the left-facing corner of "Chieftans". Follow this cool, albeit dirty and awkward corner up to a roof (strenuous here). "Chieftans" moves left along flakes, but you'll want to pull straight through roof and into the hanging corner. Clip a bolt above the roof (new) before coming out of the chimney. Also, be sure to sling your last couple of pieces in the chimney long.

Once in the hanging corner, climb past another bolt to gain the very techy face above. The face is protected by 4 more bolts and two small cams (#0-1 TCU). Follow amazing crimps past 4 more bolts and 2 small cams (#0 to 1 TCU) to a bolted belay at the Peregrine Roof.

Bring extra slings for the lower half of the route.

Rap with one 70m rope but watch ends. Or rap down and left to Guillotine anchors.

Location

Right of the Guillotine and left of Chieftans of Creep. Climbs the middle section of Chieftans... corner.

Protection

normal rack to # 2 camalot. Save a #1 TCU for the finish.

Photos

Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11d
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11d
Holy moly what a rock climb. Why is there lichen on it? The steep section is burly, but the crimpers on the upper headwall are nails hard. All of it is so so good. The hard stuff all came right after a bolt/good gear but it's no sport climb. Single rack of BD cams from 0 c3 to #2 plus maybe a couple medium to large nuts amd plenty of long runners will keep it relatively safe. Oct 18, 2017