Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 114 ft (35 m)|
|FA:||FFA--Harrison Shull--2007 FA--Whitney H, Lyle D, Jeff B, Max B--1991|
|Page Views:||1,566 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||LucasSpiegel on Apr 6, 2017|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
In addition - all 2020 raptor closures on the Nantahala Pisgah NF are LIFTED as of 6/29/2020
The Selected Climbs in NC guidebook breaks this into 2 pitches.....utilizing a hanging gear belay halfway up. It's worth noting however that Shull and the other folks that have sent this route, linked both pitches. The guidebook also calls Pitch 1 12b and Pitch 2 12d....although I find that the crux is around bolts 4 & 5 on P1.
I believe that this route has only seen 3 free ascents to date, and maybe only 1 proper red-point.
The first 3 bolts involve fun and athletic moves that dance around the arete. Get to a stance on the face, and get ready for a good stretch of hard climbing. Bolts, pins, and cams in horizontals will get you to another shake/rest at a bomber hand crack below the upper bulges above.
The upper part of the route is steeper and bouldery....although there are some rest stances to be had along the way. Expect long reaches to poor slopers, high stepping, and wild undercling sequences. The boulder problem before the anchor might just be your redpoint crux. You can rappel from here with a single 70m rope, it just reaches the ground/slab.