Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 114 ft|
|FA:||FFA--Harrison Shull--2007 FA--Whitney H, Lyle D, Jeff B, Max B--1991|
|Page Views:||567 total · 59/month|
|Shared By:||Lucas on Apr 6, 2017|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionA brilliant and direct line on perfect stone. Nuclear Erection is a masterpiece in tenuous and technical climbing. Although rated 12d, you may find it more difficult and not as straightforward as some of the 13a pitches on the North Side.
The Selected Climbs in NC guidebook breaks this into 2 pitches.....utilizing a hanging gear belay halfway up. It's worth noting however that Shull and the other folks that have sent this route, linked both pitches. The guidebook also calls Pitch 1 12b and Pitch 2 12d....although I find that the crux is around bolts 4 & 5 on P1.
I believe that this route has only seen 3 free ascents to date, and maybe only 1 proper red-point.
The first 3 bolts involve fun and athletic moves that dance around the arete. Get to a good stance on the face, and get ready for a looong stretch of hard climbing. The route stays mostly on the face through this section, but uses some arete holds as well. Bolts, pins, and cams in horizontals will get you to another stance/rest at a bomber hand crack below upper the bulges above.
The upper part of the route is steeper and bouldery....although there are some rest stances to be had along the way. Expect long reaches to poor slopers, high stepping, and wild undercling sequences. The boulder problem before the anchor may likely be your redpoint crux. Soooo much hard climbing on this route! You can rappel from here with a single 70m rope, it just reaches the ground/slab.