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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 114 ft
FA: FFA--Harrison Shull--2007 FA--Whitney H, Lyle D, Jeff B, Max B--1991
Page Views: 527 total, 70/month
Shared By: Lucas on Apr 6, 2017
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

A brilliant and direct line on perfect stone. Nuclear Erection is a masterpiece in tenuous and technical climbing. Although rated 12d, you may find it more difficult and not as straightforward as some of the 13a pitches on the North Side.
The Selected Climbs in NC guidebook breaks this into 2 pitches.....utilizing a hanging gear belay halfway up. It's worth noting however that Shull and the other folks that have sent this route, linked both pitches. The guidebook also calls Pitch 1 12b and Pitch 2 12d....although I find that the crux is around bolts 4 & 5 on P1.
I believe that this route has only seen 3 free ascents to date, and maybe only 1 proper red-point.

The first 3 bolts involve fun and athletic moves that dance around the arete. Get to a good stance on the face, and get ready for a looong stretch of hard climbing. The route stays mostly on the face through this section, but uses some arete holds as well. Bolts, pins, and cams in horizontals will get you to another stance/rest at a bomber hand crack below upper the bulges above.
The upper part of the route is steeper and bouldery....although there are some rest stances to be had along the way. Expect long reaches to poor slopers, high stepping, and wild undercling sequences. The boulder problem before the anchor may likely be your redpoint crux. Soooo much hard climbing on this route! You can rappel from here with a single 70m rope, it just reaches the ground/slab.

Location

Just left of Cornflake Crack
You'll need a 70m rope or 2 60s to get down

Protection

Single rack of cams from small up to #2
15ish draws/runners

Photos

Lucas
Asheville, NC
 
Lucas   Asheville, NC
 
Just to be clear and avoid confusion for anyone psyched to get on Nuclear Erection....a single 70m WILL get you down to the ground in one go.
Getting down from the Safari Jive anchors in one go requires 2 60m's, as Bruce stated above. Jun 19, 2017
If you are suggesting using the safari rap anchors, rapping with a single 70 will NOT make it down in one go. A single 80m just makes it with rope stretch and maybe a bit of down climbing. Apr 11, 2017