Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Whitney Heuerman
Page Views: 2,567 total · 29/month
Shared By: Phoffmann on Oct 17, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Climb the varied right facing corner to a series of tiered overlaps. A technical crux leads to pumpy climbing finishing at a two bolt anchor.

Location

Next to Bombbelay at the SC shaped flake. Lower from anchors but WATCH YOUR ENDS! This route takes a full 60 to get up and down.

Protection

Bolts and gear to #2 camalot. Two yellow TCU sized pieces are helpful near the finish.

Photos

Monkey-sa  
 
I think this is the best route at the North Sides, besides Cornflake crack. Aug 27, 2012
Phoffmann
  5.11d
Phoffmann  
  5.11d
Rumor has it that although named Whitney's Excellent Route, it may have fallen to Bruce Burgess. Interesting. Sep 11, 2012
chummer
 
chummer  
 
One of the best pitches on the Glass IMO. Regardless of grade. Even tho its got bolts you could take some big falls.
I like gear beta so here's some:

Gray C4 and/or Yellow Metolius
.75 just before the 1st bolt
.5 purple BD before crux bolt
big stopper before mantle// behind flake
yellow/gray alien offset or yellow metolius after mantle
Gray X4 BD is bomber in undercling
Orange metolius in undercling
small stopper just before anchor if you're gripped

I don't place anything bigger than a .75 and its totally safe that way. I guess you could place #2 on the left start. But I always do the rt hand start. Oct 22, 2018