Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Bob Mitchell, Will Fulton - 1969
Page Views: 16,907 total · 78/month
Shared By: Brent Roaten on Mar 22, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 This Pitch takes the beautiful arching crack just around the corner from Cornflake crack on the North Face. The arching crack ranges from 5.9 fingers at the bottom to an offwidth through the top of the arch over to the anchors. As I recall, the gear is excellent and there are plenty of stems on the lower part of the route. The crux is a strenous move or two through the offwidth ending in a lovely thin traverse to the anchors. The route continues as an aid climb for a couple of additional pitches.

Pitch 2 is a well protected, short and fun 5.8. Find 2 old but good bolts near the middle. Finish on a small ledge with 4 bolts. Rap with a single 70.

Pitch 3 A2+ can be extremely dirty depending on the last ascent. Bring a nut tool and brush for cleaning he crack. The green gully pitch is 130' because of the way it wanders. Follow the left dirty crack exiting up off the slab towards the corner. Clip 2 old 1/4" bolts. a few moves later and clip the 4 bolt ladder. Climb another 40' clipping 2 more bolts. take a minute to look up and left at gray matter A2(lots of heads). Continue up the corner looking for 2 bomber bolts 15' above the large horizontal .75-1 seam. Rap here with a single 70 or continue higher and build a belay on the ledge if continuing. Bring lots of beaks, RP's, nuts, cam hooks, and triples .1-.5 nothing larger than a 2. A single 70 barly gets you to the top of P2.

Pitch 4 5.10 120' Sorry i have not climbed this pitch.

Location Suggest change

North Face of Looking Glass. Obvious arching crack to the right of Cornflake

Protection Suggest change

Wide range of cams and passive gear. Save a #4 or #5 camalot for the crux. Fixed anchors at the top. For aid bring triple .1-.5, brasies, 3 of each size beak, cam hooks.

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