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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Mitchell, Will Fulton - 1969
Page Views: 10,482 total, 80/month
Shared By: Brent Roaten on Mar 22, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Description

The route takes the beautiful arching crack just around the corner from Cornflake crack on the North Face. The arching crack ranges from 5.9 fingers at the bottom to an offwidth through the top of the arch over to the anchors. As I recall, the gear is excellent and there are plenty of stems on the lower part of the route. The crux is a strenous move or two through the offwidth ending in a lovely thin traverse to the anchors. The route continues as an aid climb for a couple of additional pitches.

Location

North Face of Looking Glass. Obvious arching crack to the right of Cornflake

Protection

Wide range of cams and passive gear. Save a #4 or #5 camalot for the crux. Fixed anchors at the top
Sean M
 
Sean M  
 
Fantastic climb. As others have mentioned, you don't NEED a big cam, but if you have one you can definitely plug it in to help with your head game for the crux.

Eats up gear at the start, well protected at the crux, but its easy to not place enough for your follower just after the crux due to the pump factor, so be mindful of that.

Do it!! Feb 13, 2017
Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
 
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
 
Led this today and the fixed nut was still in the crack but the wire appeared to have exploded. A red #4 Mastercam/TCU works really well just to the left of the fixed nut. Nov 6, 2016
.
Asheville NC
5.10b
.   Asheville NC
5.10b
7.5.16 Looks like the old fixed gear was pushed further in and replaced with a number 9 BD stopper(this is in the crack just before the offwidth/lyback crux. It held my fat ass. Jul 5, 2016
Barrett Pauer
Brevard, NC
  5.10b
Barrett Pauer   Brevard, NC
  5.10b
Mike, I checked out the upper pitches from p-3 of invisible and they look pretty dirty and wet. The bolts I could see appeared to be stainless. If you're out there the second half of may and need a partner I would get on it. Apr 9, 2016
Mike Reardon  
 
I've always only done the first pitch but interested in the next 3. Anyone bring this to the top lately? Apr 9, 2016
Elias Jordan
Mazama, WA
Elias Jordan   Mazama, WA
.5 C4/X4 works perfect where the Nut used to be (on the Left of the slot), as for the right side a #2 to a .5 would work. May 14, 2015
mattjohnson
Laurens, SC
  5.10+
mattjohnson   Laurens, SC
  5.10+
That fixed stopper at the undercling crux didn't seem to be there anymore, so make sure to bring something to protect it with Feb 9, 2015
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
If you want gear other than that fixed nut (left side of the undercling slot) you can likely get a C4 #5 (new) on the right side. I had a #4 I decided I wanted to use and had to stuff it WAAAAY up in there and my partner wanted to huck it at me after he finally figured out how to wedge himself up in there to retrieve it. The nut is probably OK and certainly seems to get a lot of use but it's hard to inspect unless you really go caving and maybe bring a headlamp up in there. Jan 2, 2015
Scott Phil   NC
Hmm, I think I might have placed that fixed stopper. One rainy day a few years ago I took a friend to LG for the first time. The rain was supposed to stop and we had hoped a breeze might dry off the Nose area, but instead it settled in. So I told her about this "great climb that always stays dry" thinking that we could do the first pitch of the Seal. Everything was fine until I got to the top crux. The rain had blown in and area near the undercling was damp. I was able to place the stopper but could get no further. Glad that it is being put to good use, especially since it sounds like it will be there for a long time.

Edit to add that if this is my stopper it is a straight-sided Chouinard (8 I think) with a strong wire and in great condition despite its age. Sep 7, 2014
Bob M
Alpharetta, GA
Bob M   Alpharetta, GA
The fixed stopper is still in place, looks to be in good condition, and is still bomber. Tested 8/30/2014. Aug 31, 2014
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
 
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
 
The Seal! What a fantastic climb with great gear all the way through. The fixed stopper is still in place (7-20-13) before you start the wide section - if not something in the .5 range would probably suffice. You can bring a 1 or 0 C3 for the thin section that is bomber as well. Do yourself a favor and rack up for this gem! Definitely one of my favorite climbs at the glass..

  • This is beta for the first pitch only.
Jul 24, 2013
I noticed the FFA was not noted. It was by Mark James in early summer 1976. All these north side routes were pretty sporty in eb's and swamis. Mar 26, 2013
Dave Millar
Boulder, CO
Dave Millar   Boulder, CO
Great route, and stout for the grade. The thin fingers was the crux for me since I'm short, but that made the upper crux easier. You win some and you lose some. I didn't use any underclinging at the wide section, just some crimping and a side pull. No need for large gear, but it would be helpful for your follower. Mar 17, 2013
Bruce Burgess
  5.10a/b
Bruce Burgess  
  5.10a/b
It's not necessary, but you can get a big piece in the right end of the big slot if you want a more directly overhead piece during the crux. It's also a good directional for the second especially if you think they may whip on that move. That undercling always feel super slick and somewhat desperate to me. Fortunately my wife can walk the dog that pitch, so I rarely have to lead it :) Nov 18, 2012
Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
 
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
 
Great route, amazing moves. Didn't need doubles of anything really. Takes nuts (I used a lot of nuts and tricams so I didn't need doubles) and cams well the whole way. May 25, 2011
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
I used a 4 camalot right before the wide section, which was definitely the crux for me. Sep 7, 2010
ziggy  
Never saw a spot for a #4 or #5, but I would bring doubles of #1, #2, and 0.75 camalots, plus several small camming units. Not PG-13, in fact this route will take just about as much gear as you can feed it. Warning possible beta spoiler will procede!

I would say that the crux was not the offwidth undercling at the top (all though placing gear is pretty strenuous through that section) but the thin section about 1/3 of the way up the route. You will know it when you get there. It is marked by the finger section getting to thin to use (at least for bigger fingered people) and your feet slowly dwindle to smears. Aug 24, 2009
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
This is one of the sexiest routes I have ever seen! I am heading out to North Carolina for just for this! Mar 6, 2009
andjoely
Menlo Park, CA
andjoely   Menlo Park, CA
You don't need any large cams (like #4 or #5 mentioned) Jan 18, 2008