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Routes in North Side
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Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ |
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Blue Steel Throbber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R |
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Bombelay T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Brain Dead T A4 |
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Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Carolina Hog Farm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 PG13 |
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Cornflake Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 |
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Deep Cycle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Delapidated T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Extracrimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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House of Cards Var. A3- |
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Invisible Airways T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 |
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Invisible Airways Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Invisible Brailleways T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Menagerie Direct T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Menagerie to Waverly T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Not Waste Away T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Practice Aid Route T,TR A2 |
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Reign of Fire T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Saint of Circumstance T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Seal, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shrimp Cocktail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R |
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Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stained Glass T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Toxic Masculinity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ PG13 |
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Unknown (just left of Safari Jive) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Waste not want not direct T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Waste Not, Want Not T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Womb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Zombie Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+ R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 35.30546, -82.79093 |
| FA: | FA: Nathan Brown, Kevin Merritt, Rick Phillips (1996) FFA: David Sharrat |
| Page Views: | 657 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jacob Ward on Mar 25, 2022 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
This is the direct first pitch to the Glass Menagerie, and climbs straight up to the anchors at the base of the open book pitch. I've only tried this on toprope, as it would be a quite serious lead. Has it been repeated? Make cool moves on crimps and large features to get to a stance below the second bolt. Start climbing into the crux and make a tricky clip, then pull a few nails hard impossible moves that I couldn't quite figure out. A few more doable crimp moves lead you to the top-out.
Protection
2 bolts and small cams, maybe some small nuts as well. Probably best to give it a tr before leading. The climbing up to the first bolt isn't too hard and seems to have decent gear, but going between the bolts looks terrifying. The actual crux is very well protected once you clip the second bolt though.
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