Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||Nathan Brown (rope solo with some aid)|
|Page Views:||1,543 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||nbrown on Dec 2, 2009|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionThis is quite a varied route that has recently been extended all the way to the peregrine roof. I re-configured it into 2 pitches to prevent rope drag. It also makes P-1 doable for anyone scared by the guillotine flake above.
Climb the short corner to a bolt out right. Continue up and right through funky corners to a thin face. Bolts and small cams protect the face to a hard mantel at the 5th bolt. A new belay was added at the 6th bolt location under the guillotine flake to break the route into 2 pitches.
From here, move up the face to the giant guillotine flake and get gear behind it on the right side (T.S. was gracious enough to test this cam with a 30 footer). Move out right and through the roof which is protected by a bolt (newly placed to reduce rope drag on Captain K.). Climb the corner past a bolt to another bolt at the end of the corner. From here the route continues up an excellent thin face on small crimps. Some weaving back and forth will make this easier but it's still quite thin. There are options for several small cams (#0-#1 tcu) on the face to supplement the bolts. Belay on bolts at the Peregrine roof/ledge.
You can rap with one 70m, which will just barely get you down. Otherwise swing left to the P-1 anchors.