All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > N Side

The Guillotine

Name: The Guillotine
Rating: 2.3

5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in North Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
	Blue Steel Throbber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R
	Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Brain Dead T A4
	Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Carolina Hog Farm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
	Cornflake Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
	Deep Cycle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Delapidated T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	House of Cards Var. A3-
	Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
	Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
	Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
	Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
	Seal, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
	Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Toxic Masculinity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ PG13
	Unknown (just left of Safari Jive) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Waste Not, Want Not T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA:	Nathan Brown (rope solo with some aid)
Page Views:	2,013 total · 14/month
Shared By:	nbrown on Dec 2, 2009
Admins:	Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is quite a varied route that has recently been extended all the way to the peregrine roof. I re-configured it into 2 pitches to prevent rope drag. It also makes P-1 doable for anyone scared by the guillotine flake above.

P-1
Climb the short corner to a bolt out right. Continue up and right through funky corners to a thin face. Bolts and small cams protect the face to a hard mantel at the 5th bolt. A new belay was added at the 6th bolt location under the guillotine flake to break the route into 2 pitches.

P-2
From here, move up the face to the giant guillotine flake and get gear behind it on the right side (T.S. was gracious enough to test this cam with a 30 footer). Move out right and through the roof which is protected by a bolt (newly placed to reduce rope drag on Captain K.). Climb the corner past a bolt to another bolt at the end of the corner. From here the route continues up an excellent thin face on small crimps. Some weaving back and forth will make this easier but it's still quite thin. There are options for several small cams (#0-#1 tcu) on the face to supplement the bolts. Belay on bolts at the Peregrine roof/ledge.

You can rap with one 70m, which will just barely get you down. Otherwise swing left to the P-1 anchors.

Location

Just to the right of The "Glass I". Crosses over the diagonaling first pitch of "Chieftains Of Creep" at the Guillotine Flake and extending to the peregrine roof.

Protection

no stoppers, but a rack of cams up to #1, plus one #4 camelot for the roof move. Optional #2 or #3 for below the roof. The upper face only requires from purple - yellow tcu's.