All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > N Side

Creatures of Waste

Name: Creatures of Waste
Rating: 3.6

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British A3

Routes in North Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
	Blue Steel Throbber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R
	Bombelay T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Brain Dead T A4
	Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Carolina Hog Farm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 PG13
	Cornflake Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
	Deep Cycle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Delapidated T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Extracrimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	House of Cards Var. A3-
	Invisible Airways T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
	Invisible Airways Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Invisible Brailleways T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Menagerie Direct T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
	Menagerie to Waverly T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Not Waste Away T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
	Reign of Fire T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
	Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Saint of Circumstance T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
	Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
	Seal, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Shrimp Cocktail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
	Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Stained Glass T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	Toxic Masculinity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ PG13
	Unknown (just left of Safari Jive) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Waste not want not direct T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Waste Not, Want Not T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Womb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Zombie Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+ R
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV
GPS:	35.30546, -82.79093
FA:	Whitney Heuermann, Monty Reagan
Page Views:	9,494 total · 51/month
Shared By:	Tom Caldwell on Jul 19, 2010
Admins:	Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The 1st pitch is steep and fun with ample pro, and most climbers stop there. This pitch climbs like a sport route with gear and stays dry in the rain.

P1, either start on a small slab ramp or uphill on a ledge system that leads to the flake midway up the climb. From the direct start, pull some thin moves to gain large ledge. Pull a small roof to gain the flake ramp. Follow the flake ramp to a blocky section with a bolt. Watch for loose rock here. Clip the bolt and move to the short finger crack. From the finger crack move back to the steep flake and crank to the anchor. 5.10c

P2, Climb up and left through a blank face clipping two bolts to the base of a thin seam. Follow the seam to an anchor. A3

P3, Climb up to a dirty water groove to the bolted anchor. A2+

P4, Finish by climbing straight up on Diamonds in the Muff or move left to Wranglin' Horses and Hogs.

P2-P4 descriptions from NC Selected Climbs

Location

From where the North Face trail meets the wall, turn left and head up hill for about 20'. Look for a small slabby apron at the base. Look up for the obvious up and right leaning flake on a steep face. Rappel the route with one 60m for P1 and two ropes for all other pitches.