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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeep Gaskin, Don Hunley, Joe Meyers - 1979
Page Views: 5,420 total, 53/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Aug 18, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: This is a great 5.8 warmup or option for gumbier climbers that you drag over to the N Face. It features a nice tips splitter on a slab. Many folks climb only the first pitch and belay off a dying tree with webbing around it. This probably needs bolts (heaven forbid). Those hollow aluminum rap rings are for single use only and should not be part of a permanent, heavily used belay station. Follow this link to learn more: climbaz.com/service/rapring… If you are going to belay off this tree, use your own gear and the last person should donate a couple biners and rap.

Pitch 2: It looks fantastic from the ground, and is one of the few true splitters at the Glass...at least that's how it looks. Closer inspection reveals a constricting crack with a lip on it that is awkward and painful to jam with moss and mud in the back of it. Yeehaw! If doing the 2nd pitch, traverse right after the tree (a little spicey) then up the first bulge to belay at a sloping stance with good gear. The crux is liebacking or jamming over a bulge about 20' above the belay. Continue to rap from two bolts about 70' above the belay. The entire route is very well protected. Take two ropes to rap.

Location

On the North Face of Looking Glass. This is located on the face of the pillar between Cornflake Crack and the Womb. Start about 10 feet left of a large tree that has grown into the wall.

Protection

P1: Small nuts or TCU's, then standard rack
P2: Extra .5 and .75 camalots, hand sized pieces for the belay
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
The dead hemlock below the hex anchor on pitch 1 was trundled today. Took a few wiggles back and forth but broke pretty easily, leaving the base and roots intact in the crack. I cleaned much of the rotten material out of the crack, but the root ball will probably remain intact for some time. Sep 18, 2017
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
Feels mellow for the grade if you're shorter because of the high foot crux. Great climb, protects well. Oct 2, 2012
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
For the 5.8 2/3 first pitch variation:

The tree has died (wooly adelgid) and the rap anchor has been changed. There are now 2 bomber stainless cabled hexes for the anchor (two of the larger sizes) - along with two large 10mm stainless (316) quick-links as rings. They are invisibe from below but are obvious when you get there, and are located in the crack directly above the maple/dead hemlock - about 15' above where the standard route moves right. The anchor can easily be backed up with a #3 or #4 camelot, or a variety of other stuff.



Also, for those who don't know; if you are willing to swing over (same as with the older anchor tree below), it makes a good intermediate rap station for the standard descent with a 60 meter rope. Apr 7, 2012
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.11b
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.11b
The splitter on pitch 2 is really good, although everything Mike said is true. It's pretty much 10a, with the exception of the boulder problem over the roof. The final twenty feet to the bolts are like ringlocks with training wheels, lots of constrictions and pods that just fit your hands perfectly. Take lots of .75 camalots on this. I used three and could have placed one more if I had it.

Also, a good practice for rapping off the ledge where Safari Jive and Cornfake Crack's second pitch end: have the first person just do a single rope rap to the ground, and tie your other line at the bottom. The second person then pulls it up and does the standard double rope rappel. This eliminates the need to haul two ropes up these classic lines. Sep 7, 2010
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
If you plan on rapping the first pitch, the slings have moved higher to a better tree and a large cam C4 #4 or #5 is optional. Apr 30, 2010