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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Todd Wells w/ variety of parters 1996-1997
Page Views: 611 total, 52/month
Shared By: Barrett Pauer on Nov 29, 2016
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Very fun route if you're up for it

P-1 Head up and out an arching right facing corner past a fixed pin to another corner system. Climb up passing a bolt to a section of hooking below a short roof. Climb up and over the roof on rivets past a final short section to a belay.

P-2 (Synapse Ramp and Slot of Delight) I felt this was the money pitch on the route. Start of the belay past some heads and rivets to gain the ramp. Climb the ramp on big beaks to a past a rivet to the base of the slot. Gain the slot and free/aid your way up to a fixed belay.

P-3 (The Movie Screen and Navel) Climb up off the belay on rivets, circleheads and bathooks to the base of the navel. Climb up and out following rivets and heads to a belay above the roof.

P-4 Navigate your way up the face with a few rivets and lots of circleheads. Climb up past a pair of rivets to a short leftward traverse. Hook your way across the creaky flake to gain the Autobahn Crack. Belay on .75-3" gear where the crack gets horizontal.

P-5 Climb up to a rivet and traverse left of bathooks to a left facing corner. Aid your way up until the crack ends and free climb to the top. (Recommended that you break this pitch up and belay just before the crack ends)

Location

Just to the right of the Glass Menagerie. Shares a start with Cretins of Swing

Protection

Rack:
Triples in all sizes of cams to 3" (offsets are key)
Optional big cam for the slot (recommended 6" or 9")
Nuts with offsets

Iron:
10 big beaks
5 small/medium beaks
4 LA's
2 KB's
4 Sawed angles
2 baby angles
All hooks with bathooks
Heads inc. circle heads
Multiple rivet hangers and tieoffs

Photos

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