Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Todd Wells w/ variety of parters 1996-1997
Page Views: 1,176 total · 42/month
Shared By: Barrett Pauer on Nov 29, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Very fun route if you're up for it

P-1 Head up and out an arching right facing corner past a fixed pin to another corner system. Climb up passing a bolt to a section of hooking below a short roof. Climb up and over the roof on rivets past a final short section to a belay.

P-2 (Synapse Ramp and Slot of Delight) I felt this was the money pitch on the route. Start of the belay past some heads and rivets to gain the ramp. Climb the ramp on big beaks to a past a rivet to the base of the slot. Gain the slot and free/aid your way up to a fixed belay.

P-3 (The Movie Screen and Navel) Climb up off the belay on rivets, circleheads and bathooks to the base of the navel. Climb up and out following rivets and heads to a belay above the roof.

P-4 Navigate your way up the face with a few rivets and lots of circleheads. Climb up past a pair of rivets to a short leftward traverse. Hook your way across the creaky flake to gain the Autobahn Crack. Belay on .75-3" gear where the crack gets horizontal.

P-5 Climb up to a rivet and traverse left of bathooks to a left facing corner. Aid your way up until the crack ends and free climb to the top. (Recommended that you break this pitch up and belay just before the crack ends)

Location

Just to the right of the Glass Menagerie. Shares a start with Cretins of Swing

Protection

Rack:
Triples in all sizes of cams to 3" (offsets are key)
Optional big cam for the slot (recommended 6" or 9")
Nuts with offsets

Iron:
10 big beaks
5 small/medium beaks
4 LA's
2 KB's
4 Sawed angles
2 baby angles
All hooks with bathooks
Heads inc. circle heads
Multiple rivet hangers and tieoffs

Photos

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