Type: Trad, Aid, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Forrest Gardner & DavId Hoover
Page Views: 1,116 total · 27/month
Shared By: Dylan Valvo on Nov 26, 2020
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Begin below a small right facing corner left of deep cycle. Climb slab to gain this corner and then trend right on thin seams to a two bolt anchor underneath a small roof. A2
Pitch 2: Pitches 1&2 can (and should) be linked and makes for one long super fun lead. Aid up the thin arching crack on heads, iron and cams. When it fades move through eyebrows to gain the 2 bolt anchor. A3
Pitch 3: Climb straight off the belay and move through heads, bat hooks, and cams on horizontals. Belay on bolts underneath a large bulge that is part of the huge horizontal roof you can see from the parking lot above and left of the peregrine roof. A3
Pitch 4: Climb left off the belay using a large expando flake to gain the first head at the bottom of the seam. Be careful with cams and over nailing. If this flake blows you will take a nasty fall. Climb up the seam as it grows and follow this groove system bouncing around to find suitable protection. Eventually you will move left out of the groove and enter the crux section on the face using small rotten heads, rurps and bat hooks. Eventually mantle out of your ladder leaving it hanging on a bat hook to gain a ledge. Traverse right to an anchor with one old bolt, one new SS bolt, and a SS rivet A4 This is one of my favorite western aid pitches at the glass. 
Pitch 5: Make moves straight up off the belay trending left on shallow dirty ramps. Eventually you will get some gear under the roofs. Pull the roof and scramble up more dirty rock to the top 5.8
This route can be rapped but if there are concerns you should walk or rap in your usual fashion assuming this isn’t your first route on the dark side of LGR.

Location Suggest change

Located right of howlin khan left of deep cycle. Starts on slab with a shallow right facing corner above.

Protection Suggest change

Triples in cams from 00-2, a #3 was nice but not necessary, tricams, a few small/medium offset nuts, lost arrows, knife blades, rurps, bat hooks, regular hook, beaks, heads, and circle heads.