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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kris Kline - 1987
Page Views: 7,102 total, 76/month
Shared By: andjoely on Apr 19, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is an excellent slabby face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and just the right amount of protection for it to be cool without being too dangerous. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically. The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side.

Location

This climb follows the arching seam 20 feet right of the direct start to first pitch of invisible airwaves.

Protection

Mostly protected by bolts and a fixed pin. The only cams I remember that could be placed were a .5 camalot in a horizontal below the first bolt and a blue alien in a horizontal above the last bolt, but neither were good enough for me to expect them to hold a fall. Bring a variety of brass offset micro nuts and steel micro stoppers as well as the red ballnut if you want to sew up the crux at the top of the climb. The route can easily be toproped after climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves.

Photos

Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
  5.12c R
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
  5.12c R
The moves up to the first bolt are somewhat tenuous, but likely won't cast you off if you are ready for the solid mid-5.12 section through the other bolts and the wild crux at the top. In case you aren't psyched on the marginal gear and deck potential on the onsight burn, a toprope is easy to set up after doing Invisible Airwaves.

EDIT with some further gear beta: I placed the largest (red) BD brass offset in the seam just left of the resting jugs to protect the final lunge. The other gear I placed were the smallest X4 (left side) and a .4 C4 (right side pod) in the flake at the bottom, but I highly doubt either would hold a fall. Jul 1, 2015
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
I believe that a tied off friend may work better than the .75 camelot in that shallow first placement. They tend to work well in these situations. I remember seeing KK place that for pro a few years back when he led it. Feb 13, 2012
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
Mike Anderson wrote:They aren't designed or rated for holding falls...body weight only.
For what it's worth, from the Trango website: "While these units [BallNutz] are excellent for clean aid . . . they’re also terrific for protecting free climbs." Apr 21, 2010