Waste Not, Want Not
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 26 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Kris Kline - 1987|
|Page Views:||9,436 total · 60/month|
|Shared By:||andjoely on Apr 19, 2010 · Updates|
|Admins:||Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
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This is an excellent slabby face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and just the right amount of protection for it to be cool without being too dangerous. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically. The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side.
This climb follows the arching seam 20 feet right of the direct start to first pitch of invisible airwaves.
Mostly protected by bolts and a fixed pin. The only cams I remember that could be placed were a .5 camalot in a horizontal below the first bolt and a blue alien in a horizontal above the last bolt, but neither were good enough for me to expect them to hold a fall. Bring a variety of brass offset micro nuts and steel micro stoppers as well as the red ballnut if you want to sew up the crux at the top of the climb. The route can easily be toproped after climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves.