Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kris Kline - 1987
Page Views: 7,715 total · 72/month
Shared By: andjoely on Apr 19, 2010 with updates from Brian Abram
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

This is an excellent slabby face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and just the right amount of protection for it to be cool without being too dangerous. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically. The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side.

Location

This climb follows the arching seam 20 feet right of the direct start to first pitch of invisible airwaves.

Protection

Mostly protected by bolts and a fixed pin. The only cams I remember that could be placed were a .5 camalot in a horizontal below the first bolt and a blue alien in a horizontal above the last bolt, but neither were good enough for me to expect them to hold a fall. Bring a variety of brass offset micro nuts and steel micro stoppers as well as the red ballnut if you want to sew up the crux at the top of the climb. The route can easily be toproped after climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
Mike Anderson wrote:They aren't designed or rated for holding falls...body weight only.
For what it's worth, from the Trango website: "While these units [BallNutz] are excellent for clean aid . . . they’re also terrific for protecting free climbs." Apr 21, 2010
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.12
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.12
I believe that a tied off friend may work better than the .75 camelot in that shallow first placement. They tend to work well in these situations. I remember seeing KK place that for pro a few years back when he led it. Feb 13, 2012
Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
  5.12c R
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
  5.12c R
The moves up to the first bolt are somewhat tenuous, but likely won't cast you off if you are ready for the solid mid-5.12 section through the other bolts and the wild crux at the top. In case you aren't psyched on the marginal gear and deck potential on the onsight burn, a toprope is easy to set up after doing Invisible Airwaves.

EDIT with some further gear beta: I placed the largest (red) BD brass offset in the seam just left of the resting jugs to protect the final lunge. The other gear I placed were the smallest X4 (left side) and a .4 C4 (right side pod) in the flake at the bottom, but I highly doubt either would hold a fall. Jul 1, 2015
chummer  
Me and this route have some history. I first tried it back in 1995. I quickly sent it on TR and next time out racked up for the lead. I placed some decent brass but since I saw Ron Kauk clip single biners w/ no draw on small wires I did the same. It looked cool Ya know. BUT, The rope drag prevented me from sticking the last move lunge. I pitched and ripped all My gear. My belayer dropped me a bit and I fell the length of the pitch. Stopping about 10ft Off the ground.

Years went by and I would top
Rope it occasionally. All In all I've probably given it 50 burns or more. And only sent on TR like twice. The last move always felt so insecure and low percentage.

I just saw that Hazel Findlay sent it easily. She said she just "reached". I was like what!? There's gotta be better beta. Well there is. You can totally and pretty easily static the last move. It's not even that hard. Just tricky. Maybe I'll lead it again. 23 yrs later. Thanks HF! Nov 5, 2018