All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > N Side

Waste Not, Want Not

Name: Waste Not, Want Not
Rating: 3.7

5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British R

Routes in North Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
	Blue Steel Throbber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R
	Bombelay T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Brain Dead T A4
	Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Carolina Hog Farm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 PG13
	Cornflake Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
	Deep Cycle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Delapidated T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Extracrimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	House of Cards Var. A3-
	Invisible Airways T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
	Invisible Airways Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Invisible Brailleways T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Menagerie Direct T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
	Not Waste Away T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
	Reign of Fire T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
	Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Saint of Circumstance T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
	Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
	Seal, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Shrimp Cocktail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
	Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Toxic Masculinity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ PG13
	Unknown (just left of Safari Jive) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Waste not want not direct T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Waste Not, Want Not T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Womb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Zombie Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+ R
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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Kris Kline - 1987
Page Views:	10,215 total · 56/month
Shared By:	Andrew McDowell on Apr 19, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

This is an excellent slabby thin face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and sparse and sometimes questionable protection. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically. The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side. Most people toprope the route by first climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves before leading it (if they choose to do so). The route would probably be a pretty hard/scary onsight.

Location

This climb follows the arching seam about 20 feet right of the direct start to first pitch of invisible airwaves and ends at the ledge atop pitch 1 of invisible airwaves.

Protection

Mostly protected by bolts and a fixed pin. A few tiny to small cams can be placed but at least for what I was able to place with the gear I had, the cam placements seemed bad and very questionable whether they would hold a fall. I found a variety of micro nuts (offset and regular) and ball nuts useful for protecting the seam and the crux up top. The route can easily be toproped after climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves.