All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > N Side

Waste Not, Want Not

Name: Waste Not, Want Not
Rating: 3.7

5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in North Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
	Blue Steel Throbber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R
	Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Brain Dead T A4
	Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Carolina Hog Farm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 PG13
	Cornflake Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
	Deep Cycle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Delapidated T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	House of Cards Var. A3-
	Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Invisible Airways T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
	Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Menagerie Direct T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
	Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
	Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
	Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Safari Jive T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
	Seal, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
	Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Toxic Masculinity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ PG13
	Unknown (just left of Safari Jive) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Waste Not, Want Not T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Zombie Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+ R
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Kris Kline - 1987
Page Views:	9,436 total · 60/month
Shared By:	andjoely on Apr 19, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is an excellent slabby face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and just the right amount of protection for it to be cool without being too dangerous. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically. The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side.

Location

This climb follows the arching seam 20 feet right of the direct start to first pitch of invisible airwaves.

Protection

Mostly protected by bolts and a fixed pin. The only cams I remember that could be placed were a .5 camalot in a horizontal below the first bolt and a blue alien in a horizontal above the last bolt, but neither were good enough for me to expect them to hold a fall. Bring a variety of brass offset micro nuts and steel micro stoppers as well as the red ballnut if you want to sew up the crux at the top of the climb. The route can easily be toproped after climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves.