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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Description

Unlike the more forbidding Looking Glass areas, the South Side has something for everybody. Beginners can hop on easier climbs like Lichen or Not or Good Intentions; moderate leaders can hone their skills on great lines like Gemini Crack; and seasoned climbers can push themselves on harder routes like Dinkus Dog. Most of the routes at the South End are multi-pitch, but route-finding is straightforward and descent options include plentiful bolted rap stations.

Getting There

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road a short distance to the Slickrock Falls trailhead, located where the road takes a hard left. Hike up the trail, following switchbacks, for about three-quarters of a mile, ending at the base of the wall in the Bloody Crack area.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: South Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 37
Lichen or Not
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 66
Good Intentions
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 193
Second Coming
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
Fat Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 74
Left Up
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 105
Bloody Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 141
Gemini Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 75
First Return
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 41
Zodiac
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 160
Rat's Ass
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 73
Unfinished Concerto
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
B-52
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 45
Dinkus Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 8
Chaos Out of Control
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Mettle Detector
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lichen or Not
 37
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Good Intentions
 66
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Second Coming
 193
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Fat Dog
 31
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Left Up
 74
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bloody Crack
 105
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Gemini Crack
 141
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
First Return
 75
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Zodiac
 41
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Rat's Ass
 160
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Unfinished Concerto
 73
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
B-52
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Dinkus Dog
 45
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Chaos Out of Control
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Mettle Detector
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
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