Description

Unlike the more forbidding Looking Glass areas, the South Side has something for everybody. Beginners can hop on easier climbs like Lichen or Not or Good Intentions; moderate leaders can hone their skills on great lines like Gemini Crack; and seasoned climbers can push themselves on harder routes like Dinkus Dog. Most of the routes at the South End are multi-pitch, but route-finding is straightforward and descent options include plentiful bolted rap stations.

Getting There

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road a short distance to the Slickrock Falls trailhead, located where the road takes a hard left. Hike up the trail, following switchbacks, for about three-quarters of a mile, ending at the base of the wall in the Bloody Crack area.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: South Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 37
Lichen or Not
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 67
Good Intentions
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 197
Second Coming
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
Fat Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 74
Left Up
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 106
Bloody Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 144
Gemini Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 77
First Return
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 41
Zodiac
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 161
Rat's Ass
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 76
Unfinished Concerto
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 48
Dinkus Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
Chaos Out of Control
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
The Legacy
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Mettle Detector
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lichen or Not
 37
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Good Intentions
 67
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Second Coming
 197
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Fat Dog
 33
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Left Up
 74
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bloody Crack
 106
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Gemini Crack
 144
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
First Return
 77
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Zodiac
 41
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Rat's Ass
 161
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Unfinished Concerto
 76
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Dinkus Dog
 48
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Chaos Out of Control
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
The Legacy
 15
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Mettle Detector
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in South Side »

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