Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Egoon & John Gratz (1984)
Page Views: 2,113 total · 23/month
Shared By: rock-fencer on Oct 9, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Readily climbed as one long pitch:
Climb up a slab with eyebrows that eases in difficulty the higher you get. Mantle onto a block and pull some face moves to access the P1 ledge (can stop here). From there climb through a bulge via a short hand crack (crux)to another ledge. Move to climbers right and high step up over the bulge. Trend up and left to a good ledge with tat slung around a hollow flake.

Location

From the standard South Face approach, cut to climbers right following a trail that drops down and back up along the rock. Pass a large chimney and belay at the base of the slab.

2 ropes to get down. As of October 8th 2011 there is some tat around a hollow flake with two 'biners. Bring some webbing and a knife to switch out for fresh tat.

Protection

standard NC rack, #2 and #3 for belay at top of P2

Photos

Phoffmann  
 
Thad Walker and I replaced all the completely ancient tat around that hollow flake masquerading as a rap anchor. I swear that we hacked thru the FAist tat in that mess at some point. In the spirit of the Glass we replaced it with 1/2 static rope rapped in webbing doubled over with two carabiners. It will soon look like it did before we replaced it and a bolt anchor will probably have to go in. Sep 11, 2012
Cody Ashe
Brevard
 
Cody Ashe   Brevard
 
Only managed the first pitch so far, but very cool route. Jan 1, 2013
Bob M
Alpharetta, GA
Bob M   Alpharetta, GA
Bolted anchors at the top of P2 now. Jun 23, 2013
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
  5.10a
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
  5.10a
thanks Wes for the bolting job! That should help in people rediscovering this classic gem. -T Jul 8, 2013
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
  5.10a
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
  5.10a
Completely overlooked classic.
If it weren't for the 2 large ledges that break up this one long pitch this thing would be the best intro 5.10 in the state.
Heady and safe. Delicate and Powerful. Convoluted and direct.

And thank you to whomever put the bolts on top. That flake, regardless of sling-condition, was brutal.

Long live common sense! Oct 24, 2013
chummer  
An 80 meter will get you down with one rope. Bring lots of small TCU's for the slab. Dec 6, 2015
Gustav "Goose" Fredrikson
My Toyota Prius... I can't…
Gustav "Goose" Fredrikson   My Toyota Prius... I can't…
In the summer months, especially in the mornings when some of the other routes bleed and drip with water B-52 stays dry. It's located a couple hundred feet mountain right (skiers left) from the main trail, traverse slightly down then back up through rhododendron tunnel or just follow the south wall until you get to a big right facing dehedrahl then go down a bit. The first pitch goes at 5.8 but can be a little heady if you're not used to the typical Looking Glass slab, protects with small tricams but as usual the eyebrows deceive with their flared cracks. There is a worn blue rap sling on edged rock between the pitches, view is decent but not nearly as good as the rest of the climbs in the area. Could possibly bail via chimney to the climbers left. 60m rope can serve as a good top rope from first pitch. May 30, 2017
Adam Fleming
Moab
5.11b/c
Adam Fleming   Moab
5.11b/c
Total sandbag. The crux move requires way more try-hard than any 5.10 I've been on. I sent Safari Jive the day before and this move is much more difficult, not to mention committing. May 7, 2018
Stephen McKinney
Columbia, SC
 
Stephen McKinney   Columbia, SC
 
I’m not a crack climber, but the crux felt way more difficult than 5.10a. Had to aid it. It was really hard for me, but I defer to the consensus.

This is a good route. It deserves more traffic. I used mostly small TCUs and aliens for the slab section. Tricams and some slotted nuts would work as well. Need two 60s to get down. Nov 4, 2018