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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Peter Farrah, Henry Foreshipps
Page Views: 5,682 total, 44/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Unfinished Concerto provides the meat of the route in the first pitch - nice crack climbing to a very balancy mantel on to a ledge with bolts. From here, 2-3 pitches of easier climbing takes you to the Gemini Rappel Anchors. Double ropes are needed to rap to Sentry Box ledge and one single rope rappel (or down climb) gets you to the ground.

Location

Located on a tree covered ledge to the left of Rat's Ass and Second Coming. Look for the great hand size crack on the first pitch.

Protection

Standard NC rack. Double ropes, long runners.
Will Byrum  
 
Nathan, Cool about the holds -good news. Oct 29, 2017
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Will, I just did the route today (10/26/17) and all holds are still intact. Oct 26, 2017
Austin Cooner
  5.9+
Austin Cooner  
  5.9+
P1 is excellent, three .5s are helpful, wish I had one more. Also if you are unfamiliar with the area, you should aim your traverse to hit just slightly above the "old rap tree" (the obvious tree out climber's right). This should avoid climbing too high and unnecessary downclimbing. Dec 22, 2016
.
Asheville NC
5.9+
.   Asheville NC
5.9+
offset cams help for the last two placements and/or three number .5s Nov 26, 2016
The first ascent was by Peter Farrell and Henry Florschutz, both Duke students at the time. All passive, nut protection, since cams did not exist widely in 1977! I mentioned their names to Buddy Price, who evidently did his best to recall them in later writings, but erred somewhat. A very bold route for the time. Mar 22, 2015
b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
  5.9+
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
  5.9+
A terrific route! It starts off with a very nice less-than-vertical splitter.

Personally found the crux to be pretty darn hard and saw at least two options post crux : 1). stay in dihedral above crux block. 2). stay on face climber's right of dihedral and balance up the face. I sent option #2 and felt the face was very "P2-Sundial" like. Balance and smear with little to no hands.

P2 of UFC is quick. P2 isn't special for sure, but if you setup a belay after running out all the rope, you can quickly traverse over about 90' to upper Gemini rap station (let's call that P3 but you're traversing the entire time). A TWO 60M rope rap will land you on Sentry Box Ledge. Remember those rope-end knots. May 5, 2014
Trevor Shu  
5.9
…or get rid of the bolts altogether, I hear "There is a splitter at the top of P1". What are those bolts even for? Feb 9, 2014
munkeybog
Columbia, SC
  5.9+
munkeybog   Columbia, SC
  5.9+
The bolts on pitch 1 should be moved 100'+ higher.
There is a splitter at the top of P1.
P2 is totally worthy.
Rap rings would service Fat Dog to Rat's Ass. Sentry Box?
All without adding a single bolt. But then again.... let's encourage toproping an obvious multipitch climb. Oct 24, 2013
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
Look out for snakes at the base. I've come across copperheads a couple times and heard tell of rattlers too! Jan 30, 2009