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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Stan Wallace, Ron Cousins, Art Williams, Jim McEver - 1972
Page Views: 19,207 total, 141/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Climb easy ground, allowing yourself to be funneled to the crux. As the crack reaches vertical you will definitely begin to realize where the difficulty is. Immediately after the crux, belay on the ledge. Gear anchor. It looks like there were bolts there at one time. 30m

Pitch 2: Continue up the easing crack to a belay in some vegetation. 60m

Location

This is one of two obvious right-arching dihedrals well to the left of Gemini Crack (the other is Rat's Ass).

Protection

Standard rack. Rappel from either of two new sets of ring anchors (near the old rap tree) above Gemini Crack. Gemini can be crowded.
I left an alien, a nut and a extendable draw at the top of the first pitch. If anyone is kind enough to help me get this back that would be great. 706 908 8171. I couldn't go back and get it after the rain because the road was closed due to the fugitive on the loose. Jul 23, 2017
You can DEFINITELY rap this with one rope now. Just did it 2 weeks ago. There are rap rings at the top, which can lead you to another set of rap rings down and to the right (when facing the wall) of the tree. From there you will go down to another set of rings, down and to the left, then another straigt down on a huge ledge, then to the ground. You end up about 20-30m to the right of the original start.
We had one 70m and it was fine. I imagine one 60 would have worked just fine too. May 25, 2017
I liked this climb. A good natural line, on grade-A rock. Fairly rated at 5.7. The second pitch is super fun, not at all a waste of time. Aug 20, 2016
Nick Metzger
Chattanooga, TN
  5.7+
Nick Metzger   Chattanooga, TN
  5.7+
Great climb with a committing crux that is well protected. Start of crack can be a little shallow then begins to take great gear.

Set up P1 belay in crack on the second small budge above the crux. (In between both hollow sounding flakes)

Rappelling from anchors to the left of tree took every bit of 2-60M ropes. Jan 19, 2016
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
  5.7
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
  5.7
Toad,

My recollection is that the rappel from the anchors up and left of the tree takes pretty much all of 2 60m ropes. If you're 10 feet short you'll probably rap off the ends, and may have a hard time reaching your ropes to pull.

The bolts on top of Gemini Crack (down and climber's right from the tree) will be a slightly shorter rap, and are probably a better option for you. Those bolts are down over the edge though, so you'll need to be careful getting down there. Also watch out for parties on Gemini Crack or Zodiac, as you'll be barging onto their anchors and/or rapping down on top of them. Oct 28, 2015
Toad  
I have a 60m and a 60m with ~10 feet cut off; anyone know how close of a rope stretcher this rappel might be? What about going from the two bolts near the "rap" tree; any better? Thanks. Oct 25, 2015
Scott Phil   NC
Yep, you will need two 60 meter ropes to get down. Once upon a time there was a bolt at the end of the first pitch of 2nd Coming, but it was removed around 20-30 years ago. Aug 30, 2014
engineer1984 Whicker   Ogden, UT
From the topo, it looks as though you need two ropes to rappel or am I missing something?

Are there two pitches of rap rings or just one set at the top of the climb? I have one 60m rope and am flying to visit this area. Maybe I can't do this climb?

Cheers, Aug 27, 2014
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.7+
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.7+
Seconds is a great warm up and allows for some actual jamming on the first pitch. You can place a bomber .3 Camalot (or comparable size cam) in the horizontal out right of the bulge (crux). Continue up about 15 feet after pulling the bulge (crux) and build belay in the dihedral. Jul 22, 2013
Cody Ashe
Brevard
 
Cody Ashe   Brevard
 
Got to follow my buddy TJ up and the crux move was wet. I feel like it made it a little tougher than it needed to be. Feb 24, 2013
Jeff Gregory
Columbia, South Carolina
 
Jeff Gregory   Columbia, South Carolina
 
I had such a great experience on this route as my first lead in the 5.7 grade. The crux IS very well protected and the rest of the route eats gear and is very straight forward. My lesson learned was in stopper placement. Lots of great opportunities in this crack system, as well as in the eyebrows. Sep 15, 2012
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
@ Alan. There is a rap station up and left (climber) (maybe 20 feet @ 11:00) of the old rap tree. You'll be able to do this route in one or two pitches finishing at the new rap station. May 8, 2012
This is truly a classic line, and offers a great opportunity for new crack climbers to practice jams ranging from tips laybacking to full fist.

The belay after the bulge is quite solid. Some of the above comments are confusing and I'm not sure why anyone would want to place gear under the flakes as they are obviously expanding. Any cams you would place in the main crack are solid if placed deep enough, and there is a nice directional in an eye brow to the left to take the weight of a fall, plus keeping your rope in a more workable and less damaging angle. No need to move higher to the smaller ledge.

The crux move below the belay is a bit of a grunt for 5.7, but basically a one move deal, and well protected. The second pitch is very enjoyable and straightforward, but make sure to keep to the left at the final section where the crack ends to keep to the grade.

The rap station used to be the large tree at the top, but the new bolted station is now down and right of the tree, of which you must do a short rappel off the tree anyway to get to safely. I guess this station was added to keep pressure off the tree, but it adds a bit of time and precariousness. Two 60m ropes will get you down to the ledge for the second rap to the ground.

Standard rack from 00 to 3" is useful. You can do it with all cams, but there are some stellar nut placements if so desired. May 7, 2012
cammyjams
Las Vegas, NV
cammyjams   Las Vegas, NV
This was the first technical rock climb I ever did, back in 1992 with Mike McCormick of Looking Glass Outfitters. What a treat it is to come back now and read about it. Seems like only yesterday. I remember asking Mike on that first day "How can I do what you do?" (meaning lead trad) he looked at me for a moment and said "you've got a long apprenticeship ahead of you". Jun 13, 2011
Asymptote
Lawrenceville, GA
Asymptote   Lawrenceville, GA
Flake at 1st belay is pretty hollow but will take small cams well, there is a solid red tri-cam placement in a brow on the left face of the corner plus the route eats gear from the ledge up for 20' so just put something in to protect the anchor. Shouldn't have to worry about falling. It's like 5.3 until you get near the top. Jul 11, 2010
Rob Rives  
 
I couldn't help but be giddy after leading the first pitch. A lot of fun for the grade! May 3, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.7
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.7
Joshua McDaniel wrote:I would suggest belaying just after the crux at the first ledge.
I agree, there's no good reason to climb higher to what would be a marginal anchor. I've always used this first ledge whenever I've led Second Coming; there's very solid placements for anchoring there (which is probably why the bolts were chopped), and I've never experienced any rope drag on the second pitch. Nov 22, 2009
Joshua McDaniel
Johnson City, TN
Joshua McDaniel   Johnson City, TN
Hadn't climbed this route in quite a few years, and someone on the ground told me that 'avoid rope drag on the last pitch by climbing 10-15 feet higher than the ledge just after the crux.'

So I did this and it puts you right underneath the big hanging flake corner. The crack in the corner at the '2nd' ledge is very hollow. I had to tap around for quite a while to find sound placements to belay up my second.

I don't know where the climb higher past the first ledge advice came from...but I would suggest belaying just after the crux at the first ledge. Nov 21, 2009
ed hall
melbourne fl
ed hall   melbourne fl
I agree with chuck parks do NOT belay off the flakes, they have been there forever but plenty of other solid cracks and brows to hang an anchor. Aug 8, 2009
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
very enjoyable climb. Good warm up for the 5.8's on the S Face. I like this climb, you build a belay after the first pitch, the rest is a nice cruise. Mar 14, 2008
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
  5.7
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
  5.7
Leaders should be advised that the right face of the corner above the typical pitch 1 belay ledge is composed of large, and very hollow flakes. Be careful how you place gear here, or continue up another 20 feet or so and belay at a smaller ledge. Feb 1, 2008
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.7
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.7
Excellent route! It's easy to see why some leaders have taken falls at the crux bulge; it's a delicate sequence on holds that felt a little slick to me. But the move is well-protected. Apr 1, 2007
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Very nice. Apr 1, 2007
Second Coming has scored numerous injuries from people blowing it at the crux and tumbling down the slab. Make sure your gear is solid before you commit. Oct 16, 2006