Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Stan Wallace, Ron Cousins, Art Williams, Jim McEver - 1972
Page Views: 28,631 total · 133/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

This climb has been the site of many broken ankle injuries due to a fall at the crux. It is advised that climbers should belay higher up in the crack below the crux to prevent rope stretch. The rope stretch if belayed from the ground, is enough that it almost guarantees the leader would strike the slab below.

Pitch 1: Climb easy ground, allowing yourself to be funneled to the crux. As the crack reaches vertical you'll definitely begin to realize where the difficulty is. Immediately after the crux, belay on the ledge. Gear anchor. It looks like there were bolts there at one time. 30m

Pitch 2: Continue up the easing crack to a belay in some vegetation. 60m

Location Suggest change

This is one of two obvious right-arching dihedrals well to the left of Gemini Crack (the other is Rat's Ass).

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. Rappel from either of two new sets of ring anchors (near the old rap tree) above Gemini Crack. Gemini can be crowded.