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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 195 ft
FA: Jim McEver
Page Views: 663 total · 27/month
Shared By: jeep gaskin on Apr 11, 2016
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

The hardest moves are low on the route, within the first 25 feet. Protection is excellent. Prepare for an enjoyable romp. Negotiating the perpetual wet streak higher up is usually easy but adds some adventure. Rope stretching a 60 meter cord will put you on a ledge to the left with inches to spare, gear belay. On busy South Side days this route is nearly always available.

Location

Southender is at the left hand end of the South Side. Pass beneath Rat's Ass and keep going till you come to the end of the wall. The shallow corner above is Southender. Like the water streak, getting down is something of an adventure. The Ruby Tuesday/Irish Jig rap rings are 30 feet below the Southender ledge, but you can't see them because there is an overhang in the way. To get there you must down lead the obvious water groove on the right if you are facing out. It is easy and there is abundant gear. Keep in mind the down leader is placing gear to protect the second. Circle back under the Southender ledge and the rap anchors are head high. Double ropes to the ground.

Protection

standard Glass rack.

Photos

Tim Fry
Charlotte NC
 
Tim Fry   Charlotte NC
 
The climbing is enjoyable enough and it was fun enough to do it as one mega-pitch. But beware: if 5.8 is your comfortable limit, the downlead Jeep describes may leave you a bit over your head, both in technical proficiency and from a difficulty perspective. Make sure you go in with a sense of adventure and protect it adequately for your followers!

If you want to do this route and are not comfortable with the descent shenanigans, my suggestion would be to bring some webbing and make one 30' rap from the trees above your over the left side of the dihedral. (To find the belay, you must climb over the dihedral when you're about 30' below the nasty looking tree ledge.) Then you will hit the anchors Jeep describes directly.

Oh, and I did this with a 70m and was getting shouts from below about running out of rope. I hit the belay with 10'(?) to spare, Jeep knows this area much better than I, but I really don't know if a 60m would have made it. Apr 27, 2016
Mike Reardon  
 
A 60 meter full rope length runs about 10 feet shy of the tree island if doing the mega pitch. You have to set a gear belay in the dihedral, then do a sloppy mini second pitch.
Alternatively, if dry, climb on the black streak above and right of the tree island and continue for three more long pitches, then rap the same as The Enigma. Mostly easy climbing with a few 5.8 moves. Apr 28, 2016
Climbed this yesterday to the ledge above the Sun Wall. Would absolutely break this up into two pitches in the future, rope drag was heinous even with pieces extended waaaay out. Save some cams in the 2/3 size for the top in order to protect the final traverse for your second. There's a tree with nylon and dyneema slings and two non-lockers above the final ledge that can get you back down to the pitch 1 tree (that I believe Tim Fry is describing) with 2 ropes, but be prepared to leave your own gear up there depending on its condition. Also be prepared to struggle to retrieve your rope after rappelling back down to pitch 1 tree where you may also have to leave gear. Apr 6, 2018

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