Avg: 2.3 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 750 ft, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,912 total · 51/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Reardon on Jan 12, 2015|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionWe were surprised to find no evidence of previous climbers on what is the longest moderate at the Glass. Mostly 5.7 and under climbing with a crux 20' off the ground.
P1: (5.8+, 170 ft) Follow the easy slab to a blocky right facing corner. Pull the crux corner protected by two small nuts below your feet, then up a knobby face right of the Southender crack (you also have the option to climb the better protected crack). Gear belay on a ledge over the top of the right hand rhodo patch.
P2: (5.7-, 180 ft) Climb the eyebrow studded face with unbelievable friction to a two bolt anchor.
P3: (5.5, 200 ft) Continue on the face, move left to a water groove that keeps the climbing interesting. Walk right on the parking lot sized ledge for a gear belay under the right most leaning crack.
P4: (5.7, 215 ft) Climb the right hand crack/ ledge. Pass a rhodo, then move left onto the face aiming for a big pine tree. Walk to the top. Note: you may have to split this into two pitches or do some easy simul climbing. You could continue on another 60 foot pitch but we didn't since it was dirty.
Decent: Two 60 meter ropes at least. Watch the ends of your ropes!