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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Ron Cousins, Art Williams, 1972
Page Views: 4,588 total, 35/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Thin moves down low lead past the crux and to a thin corner. Climb this corner aiming for the larger corner system. Follow up and to the right to the Gemini Rappel anchors. A double rope rappel puts you back on Sentry Box Ledge.

Location

First Return is the left most route of the three routes (Gemini Crack and Zodiac) located on Sentry Box Ledge.

Protection

Standard NC rack with some small gear (aliens, nuts), long runners, double ropes. Rap anchors at top.

Photos

As of October '17 a key little hold on the beginning sequence is gone. Makes for a more committing bouldery start. Also, a small cam used to go here. It probably shattered when someone took a fall on the gear there. Nov 9, 2017
Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
  5.8 PG13
Nathan Stegenga   Spokane, WA
  5.8 PG13
Exciting climbing right off the deck above Sentry Box. You can build a gear anchor at the start to protect a ground fall should you peel off and take your belayer with you, but there's no gear to protect you from decking on the ledge until about 10-15 feet up. Techy climbing in the flaring crack, but find the jug and you're golden. Protect the slab traverse between crux corner and P2 in the eyebrows on the face. The upper corner system (second pitch) is a little sanbagged, felt more like 5.7 - if you find yourself panicked because you don't see placements, eyebrows on the left take good gear. Tricams baby! Apr 3, 2017
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
  5.8 PG13
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
  5.8 PG13
The start of this climb could end a climbing season for inexperienced or inattentive leader.
Don't fall. The rest of the climb is a wonderful moderate. Oct 24, 2013
Twhitmire
lookout mountain, ga
Twhitmire   lookout mountain, ga
If the second pitch is wet it is very easy to link over to second coming at the top of the first pitch Apr 19, 2013
Eric Embree
Wheaton, Illinois
  5.8+
Eric Embree   Wheaton, Illinois
  5.8+
I second that comment on the it not being a good climb for the inexperienced leader. Not sure where that jug is off to the left that you guys were talking about I might but this more at an 8+ only because of the section of runnout at the beginning and after the flaring crack (unless I completly missed something). Oct 20, 2012
Rob Rives  
 
Sweet runout off of the ledge! Good, thought-provoking moves and gear placements in the maddeningly flaring crack, coupled with a pretty sandbagged second pitch, make a for a full package (or a thick, juicy humble burger). Not good for the new 5.8 leader. Aug 6, 2010
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
The start is exciting! P2 is a bit sandbagged. Probably closer to 5.7, but still fun. Jul 1, 2009
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
I don't think those distances, mentioned in the above comment, are correct (p1 = 120 ft + p 2 = 180 ft = 300 ft). The two pitches can be combined into one pitch that is less than 200 ft pitch. And the rappel from the new bolts is approximately 180 ft to Sentry Box Ledge. I will find the pdf of the new anchors and post...it is attached to the Gemini Cracks page. Aug 12, 2008
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
This climb starts on sentry box ledge at the far North end. Climb the face (5.8) to inside corner, or start in corner itself. this crack ends at a kind of slabby overhang. Pull to Left (supposedly a hidden jug) or right to nice gear belay ft(5.8). 2nd pitch follows crack to the top (5.5). (you are right Jeff) There are a nice new set of Rap bolts about 20 ft North of the big tree. Previously the tree was the rap anchor. Now the rap does not interfere with the other routes that come up from the ledge. May 2, 2007