Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Stan Wallace, John Ferguson, Jim McEver, Ron Cousins - 1973
Page Views: 12,307 total · 83/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

164 Opinions

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A challenging climb with a thin crack in a stemming corner. Linking P2 and P3 is the way to go as long as you have a 60-meter rope.

P1 - Starting on low-angle slab, scramble up to a crack and continue through a right-facing corner with a fingertip-sized crack. Belay at a rounded ledge with good gear in the widening crack. 5.8, 120'
P2 - Continue up the crack on easier ground, moving up and right until the corner ends and find a good spot to belay (or continue up and right to the anchors). 5.5, 170'
P3 - Climb up and right on good friction using cracks and eyebrows for pro until you get to the new upper rap anchors for Gemini Crack. 5.5, 60'


Starts just left of Second Coming. Rap from upper Gemini ring anchors to the Sentry Box Ledge, then a second rap to the ground.


Small to medium nuts and cams. No fixed gear.


Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
This route is a classic, tips and stemming with rests when you need em. Apr 1, 2007
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
Great route and a heady P1 lead by Danny, very thin fingertips in places. P2 is easier climbing but still a lot of fun on lead. A must do! Apr 1, 2007
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
This is one of the best 5.8's on the South Face. The first pitch is a right leaning inside corner. It appears blank from the deck. However, as said, the finger locks are sweet 120ft (5.8+). I like to climb up 30 feet and set up the belay at the bottom of the crack. Both this climb and 2nd coming have a low angle slab that pushes the belay out from the face. This creates a outward pull that can lead to a zipper of your gear. make sure you use a directional on these climbs. The 2nd pitch is long 180 Ft (5.5). May 2, 2007
Devin Armour
Asheville, NC
Devin Armour   Asheville, NC
Good route on a busy wall. Hit it after a rainy night but it was dry by 10. Pulling over the bulge on the second pitch was a high point. May 14, 2008
Savannah, GA
AWBivins   Savannah, GA
I felt like gear placements were the crux on this route. After watching my last nut placement pop out I was pretty much free soloing. Make sure you bring plenty of small gear. Oct 13, 2010
Jeff Mekolites
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
Best done in 2 pitches. First to the obvious belay ledge. Second to the rap rings. Jan 3, 2012
Richard Vazquez  
This is a fun route but on the second pitch be carefull because theres a lot of loose rocks. May 30, 2012
Jeff Gregory
Columbia, South Carolina
Jeff Gregory   Columbia, South Carolina
There's an old (chopped?) bolt site on the right face as you end the 5.8 section (120ft) and move into easier ground. Just FYI. It helped me solidify the "so-I-guess-I'm-setting-anchor-here" decision after running a bit slim on gear...having no experience on the route before.

This route was such a fantastic experience for me with the thin fingers. Nov 18, 2012
I agree with Jeff, this can be done in 2 pitches. Head over to the new rings above Gemini. A fun climb with a great crack. Slabby- trust those feet! Mar 23, 2014
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
First pitch finger crack is classic! Linking the second and third pitch is the way to go. Two 60m ropes needed to reach Sentry Box Ledge. Apr 1, 2014
Mike Paugh
Morgantown, WV
Mike Paugh   Morgantown, WV
Really fun first pitch. My only complaint is it seemed like all the best gear placements on the first pitch were in the best hand and finger holds..lol. Great route! Nov 10, 2015
Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
Excellent thin crack. I found that alloy offsets were extremely helpful on the crux pitch because they allow you to protect without blocking key jams. Doubles in the medium sized offsets could definitely be put to use. Mar 6, 2017
Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
Nathan Stegenga   Spokane, WA
Takes fantastic passive pro, especially offsets like Harrison mentioned. In some finger pods, a cam would be a manky placement/occupy the hold and I found nuts to fit the bill very well here - easy to place and not occupying the hold too much. Amazing line, wish it was longer! I found it worth bringing hand sized pieces for the gear belay. Apr 3, 2017
Micah McCrotty
Micah McCrotty   Knoxville
Amazing route! Offset nuts were great for the crux section, and I'd suggest bringing at least one #2 for the first pitch belay (I used two) but I don't think I used anything larger. Oct 3, 2017
Stephen McKinney
Columbia, SC
Stephen McKinney   Columbia, SC
Mental crux for me was gear placement because I’d always placed cams and learned on the fly with placing nuts on this route. Second pitch is stellar too. What a fun route. Do it in two pitches. Oct 16, 2017