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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Stan Wallace, John Ferguson, Jim McEver, Ron Cousins - 1973
Page Views: 11,014 total, 85/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A challenging climb with a thin crack in a stemming corner. Linking P2 and P3 is the way to go as long as you have a 60-meter rope.

P1 - Starting on low-angle slab, scramble up to a crack and continue through a right-facing corner with a fingertip-sized crack. Belay at a rounded ledge with good gear in the widening crack. 5.8, 120'
P2 - Continue up the crack on easier ground, moving up and right until the corner ends and find a good spot to belay (or continue up and right to the anchors). 5.5, 170'
P3 - Climb up and right on good friction using cracks and eyebrows for pro until you get to the new upper rap anchors for Gemini Crack. 5.5, 60'

Location

Starts just left of Second Coming. Rap from upper Gemini ring anchors to the Sentry Box Ledge, then a second rap to the ground.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and cams. No fixed gear.
Stephen McKinney
Columbia, SC
  5.8+
Stephen McKinney   Columbia, SC
  5.8+
Mental crux for me was gear placement. First pitch eats up passive pro. Second pitch is stellar movement and really straightforward. What a fun route. Do it in two pitches. Oct 16, 2017
Micah McCrotty
Knoxville
 
Micah McCrotty   Knoxville
 
Amazing route! Offset nuts were great for the crux section, and I'd suggest bringing at least one #2 for the first pitch belay (I used two) but I don't think I used anything larger. Oct 3, 2017
Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
  5.8+
Nathan Stegenga   Spokane, WA
  5.8+
Takes fantastic passive pro, especially offsets like Harrison mentioned. In some finger pods, a cam would be a manky placement/occupy the hold and I found nuts to fit the bill very well here - easy to place and not occupying the hold too much. Amazing line, wish it was longer! I found it worth bringing hand sized pieces for the gear belay. Apr 3, 2017
Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
 
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
 
Excellent thin crack. I found that alloy offsets were extremely helpful on the crux pitch because they allow you to protect without blocking key jams. Doubles in the medium sized offsets could definitely be put to use. Mar 6, 2017
Mike Paugh
Morgantown, WV
 
Mike Paugh   Morgantown, WV
 
Really fun first pitch. My only complaint is it seemed like all the best gear placements on the first pitch were in the best hand and finger holds..lol. Great route! Nov 10, 2015
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
 
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
 
First pitch finger crack is classic! Linking the second and third pitch is the way to go. Two 60m ropes needed to reach Sentry Box Ledge. Apr 1, 2014
I agree with Jeff, this can be done in 2 pitches. Head over to the new rings above Gemini. A fun climb with a great crack. Slabby- trust those feet! Mar 23, 2014
Jeff Gregory
Columbia, South Carolina
  5.8
Jeff Gregory   Columbia, South Carolina
  5.8
There's an old (chopped?) bolt site on the right face as you end the 5.8 section (120ft) and move into easier ground. Just FYI. It helped me solidify the "so-I-guess-I'm-setting-anchor-here" decision after running a bit slim on gear...having no experience on the route before.

This route was such a fantastic experience for me with the thin fingers. Nov 18, 2012
Richard Vazquez  
  5.8
This is a fun route but on the second pitch be carefull because theres a lot of loose rocks. May 30, 2012
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.8
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.8
Best done in 2 pitches. First to the obvious belay ledge. Second to the rap rings. Jan 3, 2012
AWBivins
Savannah, GA
 
AWBivins   Savannah, GA
 
I felt like gear placements were the crux on this route. After watching my last nut placement pop out I was pretty much free soloing. Make sure you bring plenty of small gear. Oct 13, 2010
Devin Armour
Asheville, NC
  5.8
Devin Armour   Asheville, NC
  5.8
Good route on a busy wall. Hit it after a rainy night but it was dry by 10. Pulling over the bulge on the second pitch was a high point. May 14, 2008
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
5.8+
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
5.8+
This is one of the best 5.8's on the South Face. The first pitch is a right leaning inside corner. It appears blank from the deck. However, as said, the finger locks are sweet 120ft (5.8+). I like to climb up 30 feet and set up the belay at the bottom of the crack. Both this climb and 2nd coming have a low angle slab that pushes the belay out from the face. This creates a outward pull that can lead to a zipper of your gear. make sure you use a directional on these climbs. The 2nd pitch is long 180 Ft (5.5). May 2, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Great route and a heady P1 lead by Danny, very thin fingertips in places. P2 is easier climbing but still a lot of fun on lead. A must do! Apr 1, 2007
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
This route is a classic, tips and stemming with rests when you need em. Apr 1, 2007