Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Tainio, Peter White
Page Views: 2,563 total · 24/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Jan 17, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

P1 Start at the same ledge as Rat's Ass. Move left at start into a short right facing corner. Move left onto the face(5.9 crux) as soon as possible and follow the white streak. Stay in the sustained white streak face until the base of the corner crack (5.8+). Belay from large eyebrows or continue higher to a poor belay stance to prevent a simul-climb or trad anchor on the last pitch.

P2 Follow the corner crack to it's end, then traverse hard right to gain rap anchors near the Gemini Tree (5.5). This last pitch is a rope stretcher that either has to be broken up with a trad anchor or simul climbed to reach the anchor.

Location

20' left of Second Coming, starts on the same belay ledge as Rat's Ass.

Protection

TCU's to 2 Camalot. Doubles of 1 and 2 camalot or blue tricam are mandatory.

Photos

This rig is like Dinkus Dog lite and I would say the gear is better than PG-13. Take a number one stopper and key hole it in to the surreal pocket in the middle of the face. Mar 6, 2012
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
  5.9
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
  5.9
Agree with Phil. Considering it's looking glass and Nick Danger and Irish Jig are within plain sight this route is very very well protected.

It gets my vote for most overlooked 5.9 classic on the Southface. A must do. Don't skip any placements. Oct 24, 2013
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Finally got around to climbing this...great sustained steep face slabbing. I would agree kinda like a mini Dinkus. Apr 23, 2018