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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Buddy Price, Doc Bayne, 1977
Page Views: 3,428 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jethro Bodine-Clampett on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This lesser climbed route at the South Face deserves mention, not only because the FA party included the late, great Doc Bayne, But it also packs quite a punch in the first 40 ft. or so with a long, scary runout on 5.8+.

Location

Climb up to Sentry Box Ledge, then start a few feet to the right of Gemini Crack on a fairly steep slab. Climb straight up the slab to a point where where you can finally get something in, then wander to the top on somewhat easier ground.

Protection

I gave this route an R because of the first 40ft., but the protection gets a little better after that first pro placement. Take some smaller stuff.

Photos

Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
This is a great climb that has a bit of everything. I agree the first 40 feet or so are spicey 5.8. There is solid gear right after the crux. Apr 1, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+ PG13
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+ PG13
Hats off to Danny for a great lead! The starting section will definitely get your blood pumping. Apr 1, 2007
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.8+
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.8+
I had to work for the gear at the start, but there was plenty of it. No R rating, not even PG-13. Nov 26, 2012
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
  5.8+
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
  5.8+
Not R.
Just not.
Definitely "feels" harder than other 8s around, but that's only because you have to think and search. Oct 24, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This climb is awesome. Tricky, thought-provoking off the deck, not just one move, but several pieced together. Then, the upper half has an aesthetic section that is pleasant, and not your typical 5.5 throwaway like other climbs. This might be my favorite line of the three off the Ledge. Oct 23, 2016
Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
 
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
 
Tricky gear down low but it's all there, taller people will have an easier time placing it. Offset cams may take some of the spice out of those first 40ft. I think its fair to call this PG-13 but definitely not R.

Double ropes definitely helped on this climb. The upper crack section above the half way ledge is excellent. Nov 15, 2016

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