Chaos Out of Control
Avg: 3.8 from 8 votes
Routes in South Side
|B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Monty Reagan, Ken Pitts (1987)|
|Page Views:||3,965 total, 44/month|
|Shared By:||chummer on Aug 22, 2010|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionI feel this could be the best 5.10 face route on the Glass. Chaos offers sustained climbing on flawless rock. The gear is good and a bit spaced out at times but nothing death defying.
The Lambert guide describes this route in two pitches but we used to always do it in one long pitch. You'll need 2 60m ropes to rap.
One memorable ascent involved my buddy Curtin on the on sight attempt on a late summer's evening. The clouds were turning black fast as he moved past the first belay. Not long after the sky started to crack and boom and I not so subtly told him to hurry the #$@$ up. He punched it up the second half of the pitch in record time, cleaned the route on rappel, and we ran down the South Side trail as the sky unloaded with rain and lighting striking all around.
LocationLeft side of the South Side.
This route is located up on the ledge with Dinkus Dog and Unfinished Concerto. Locate the obvious twin water grooves located to the right of Dinkus Dog and Parachute Woman.