Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
FA: Monty Reagan, Ken Pitts (1987)
Page Views: 5,167 total · 39/month
Shared By: chummer on Aug 22, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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I feel this could be the best 5.10 face route on the Glass. Chaos offers sustained climbing on flawless rock. The gear is good and a bit spaced out at times but nothing death defying.

The Lambert guide describes this route in two pitches but we used to always do it in one long pitch. You'll need 2 60m ropes to rap.

One memorable ascent involved my buddy Curtin on the on sight attempt on a late summer's evening. The clouds were turning black fast as he moved past the first belay. Not long after the sky started to crack and boom and I not so subtly told him to hurry the #$@$ up. He punched it up the second half of the pitch in record time, cleaned the route on rappel, and we ran down the South Side trail as the sky unloaded with rain and lighting striking all around.


Left side of the South Side.

This route is located up on the ledge with Dinkus Dog and Unfinished Concerto. Locate the obvious twin water grooves located to the right of Dinkus Dog and Parachute Woman.


You might need a large hand size (#2 or #3) piece down low. Lots of TCU's, a few bolts, tri cams are always helpful at the Glass.

Update: 11/2018 The upper portion of this above the bolts protects well with large finger and hand size cams. Save a .5, .75. 1, and 2 for up here.