Type: Trad, 325 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,480 total · 60/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Oct 27, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

33 Opinions

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A great route that can be done in 2 long pitches. Climb the 1st pitch crack to its end using jams, stems and lay-a-ways, step right and belay on a nice ledge. Natural belay, 200 ft pitch. 5.7

2nd pitch has 2 options.

1st- Move right and finish on the Unfinished Concerto crack.

2nd- (better option)
From the belay move up and left aiming for a notch. Pull the notch and face climb aiming for a couple of slung hemlock trees at 130 ft. 5.7

Rap straight down Chaos out of Control. Double rope rap.


Obvious wide crack left of Unfinished Concerto


Nuts, double cams to 3 inch(optional 4-6 inch piece), many runners


WNC/Broomfield, CO
nbrown   WNC/Broomfield, CO
I usually like a good grovel but this route was lacking in that department -- too many good holds. Jan 27, 2012
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This route is awesome. Not a typical climb. The wide crack felt more like a chimney. It was a really fun lead: Secure, interesting, and perfectly challenging for the 5.7 grade. Even the 2nd pitch is good! Not a throw-away 5.5 like some other climbs on the southside. Only problem is topping out and finding your way to the (or a) rappel. Oct 2, 2016
Winston-Salem, NC
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
This is a really fun route. There is a variety of movement all over it. Stays shaded in the morning- a great plus for the South Side.

The optional notch pull for the second pitch felt more like a hard 5.8 move, plus the climbing right off the belay ledge has little to no protection going left. Definitely spicier than the rest of the climb. Oct 2, 2016