Type: Trad, 325 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,154 total · 59/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Oct 27, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

A great route that can be done in 2 long pitches. Climb the 1st pitch crack to its end using jams, stems and lay-a-ways, step right and belay on a nice ledge. Natural belay, 200 ft pitch. 5.7

2nd pitch has 2 options.

1st- Move right and finish on the Unfinished Concerto crack.

2nd- (better option)
From the belay move up and left aiming for a notch. Pull the notch and face climb aiming for a couple of slung hemlock trees at 130 ft. 5.7

Rap straight down Chaos out of Control. Double rope rap.

Location

Obvious wide crack left of Unfinished Concerto

Protection

Nuts, double cams to 3 inch(optional 4-6 inch piece), many runners

Photos

nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
I usually like a good grovel but this route was lacking in that department -- too many good holds. Jan 27, 2012
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This route is awesome. Not a typical climb. The wide crack felt more like a chimney. It was a really fun lead: Secure, interesting, and perfectly challenging for the 5.7 grade. Even the 2nd pitch is good! Not a throw-away 5.5 like some other climbs on the southside. Only problem is topping out and finding your way to the (or a) rappel. Oct 2, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This is a really fun route. There is a variety of movement all over it. Stays shaded in the morning- a great plus for the South Side.

The optional notch pull for the second pitch felt more like a hard 5.8 move, plus the climbing right off the belay ledge has little to no protection going left. Definitely spicier than the rest of the climb. Oct 2, 2016