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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Buddy Price, Doc Bayne - 1977
Page Views: 4,418 total · 33/month
Shared By: saxfiend on May 29, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

A nice warmup for the other great South Face climbs, but not a casual route for the grade. Put thoughts like "this doesn't feel like 5.6" out of your mind and enjoy the friction climbing.

Starting below right-slanting crack, follow it up and right; after the crack peters out, continue straight up on mainly friction moves to the tree ledge above. If you don't feel like rapping at this point, you can move to the left end of the ledge to the start of Afterbirth (which will take you to the Gemini rap station).

Location

Starts about 25' left of Left Up at an obvious slanting crack. Rap from rap rings at the ledge.

Protection

Small to medium gear; tricams are handy.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
This didn't feel like 5.6. :-) May 29, 2007
Joseph Brown
Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.6
Joseph Brown   Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.6
This is a comfortable route with good placements - just keep going right-up-right, rather than up-right-up - the placements start drying up on the left side as you get closer to the ledge. Sep 3, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
The best route on this little wall IMO; it actually stays engaging for the entire pitch. I don't know about the grade, but I saw two 4 year olds TR this thing.... Apr 19, 2010
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Another Great warm up! Good placements most of the way up, things get a little more spread out as you reach the top but its on easy ground. Simple way to access the ledge for TR set ups on other climbs. Fun climbing plain and simple!

If you didn't get your fix on the first pitch my partner and I decided to continue straight up, pulling the immediate roof off the ledge and left then continuing to the summit. There is good pro and the climbing is equal or lesser grade. Its not in the book but there are plenty of massive trees you can rappel off once you reach the top. I am sure someone must have climbed this line before, regardless we decided to name it "Taste of Blood"!! Oct 18, 2011
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
  5.6
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
  5.6
Great warm up and introduction to slab for new climbers. Gear is good. The crux move miggggght be 5.7, but it's all there. You just gotta trust your feet, they'll stick. I think 5.6 is fair. Mar 17, 2014
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
70 meter rope is needed if you take it to the old TAT above the 1st tree. That was a nice surprise.

It's pretty un-natural to try and take this over to the Anchors of "Left-up", which is what I guess people are expected to do. I added a quick link to the tree with some tat (35M from the ground), since there was none. One would think this would have been fixed up differently since it is normally guided to death. Oct 20, 2014

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