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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim McEver, M. Wousey, Blair Ritter, 1974
Page Views: 2,001 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

A slightly harder version of Left Up. Can be a quick fun route if things are busy at the South Face area.

Location

Located just to the right of Left Up and just left of Stage Ledge, etc.

Protection

Standard NC rack, runners, 1 rope. Slings on tree for rappel.

Photos

Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
This climb features a crux right off the deck for the first 20 ft. The landing is bad. At this point it takes a bomber stopper (about a 10-12 BD) and is pretty casual to the ledge. It's worth doing but must have your lead head on. Mar 14, 2008
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
There is also a 00 C3 placement that will hold a fall if you place it well. Beware that if it walks at all as you move up through the crux it can lose it's purchase. Oct 23, 2008
Joseph Brown
Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.9 PG13
Joseph Brown   Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.9 PG13
This route leads to an expansive ledge with bolted rap rings shared with two other popular routes, "Good Intentions" and "Left Up".

The tree mentioned in the beta is adequate for rappelling, but why stress the tree when bolts are in easy reach?

To save my ankles, I usually lead "Good Intentions" and setup a top-rope anchor on the wall just below the ledge to work the other two routes as well as variances in between.

I'll usually lower after the first 30 feet until I'm ready to clean up and move on - anything above that is just a monkey walk up the wall. Aug 31, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
I thought this was similar difficulty to "Left Up", but it's better protected. I was able to climb easily up to a stance where I could reach up and get a bomber green BD C3, then downclimb, move to the right and climb the starting sequence with a TR. The next placement is also a bit sketchy, as you are placing somewhat blind while liebacking off the lip of the crack. I put a #3 camalot in here that seemed alright...a smaller cam might also work. After, that, the route is pretty forgettable like most of the routes on this wall. Apr 19, 2010
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Good Climb All around. Once you pull the first couple moves of the climb you enter the danger zone, keep calm, cool and collected and set some gear as soon as possible. Once you set some pro it becomes much less terrifying for the rest of the climb.

THis is another line where a crash pad would help ease the ankles and the mind. Oct 18, 2011
Bill T
JOHNSON CITY, TN
Bill T   JOHNSON CITY, TN
Climb has become beyond slick at the start with great fall potential before you can place a piece. Be very careful on lead or have a pad and spotters. I'd lead Hyperbola at the Nose Area over this one any day. Jul 12, 2018

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