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Routes in South Side

B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bloody Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Will Leverette
Page Views: 4,013 total, 33/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Popular beginner climb. Many parties do only the first pitch.

P1- Head up the ramp/corner, and then continue up the face, trending left a bit, to bolt anchors. (5.5, 90ft.)

P2- Head up and slightly right toward a big tree at the top. (5.5, 200 ft.)

Descent- Use two 60m ropes to rappel to the P1 anchors from slings around the tree. One 60m rope will get you from the P1 anchors to the ground.

Location

From where the approach trail meets the South Face beneath the Stage Ledge, head about 100 feet to the right. Look for a right-facing corner/ramp with a crack in it.

Protection

standard rack, bolts at top of P1, slings and rings on tree at top of P2

Photos

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Micah Rogers
Asheville, NC
 
Micah Rogers   Asheville, NC
 
Fun entry-level route. First pitch can be turned into a 5.7 or so if you decide to pull a crimpy move over the first major bulge you reach rather than traversing right and then moving up. This option makes adds two or three slightly tougher moves, and also avoids the water trail if the rock is wet. Apr 22, 2014
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
As the "Selected Climbs" mentions its a good route if everything else is crowded. Straight forward and fun. A excellent climb for someone who is learning to trad lead or just getting into it. Good gear and easy terrain. It appears to be a route that gets less traffic so it can be dirty at times, buts thats that, "Lichen or Not"! Oct 18, 2011
Joseph Brown
Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.5
Joseph Brown   Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.5
I climbed this route with a new partner yesterday - while we were up at the top, I added another new cordellete & rap ring to the big tree at the top of the route. Aug 31, 2009
Joseph Brown
Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.5
Joseph Brown   Mt. Olive, NJ
  5.5
There is indeed a 2nd pitch and IMHO a good training ground for new trad leaders (like myself) to rehearse multi-pitch lead-follow techniques before tackling more challenging routes. The view at the top of the ridge isn’t half bad either.

You can go up and to the left of P1 to a small group of trees with a fairly new cordellette and double rap rings around a healthy tree or slant off to the right and further up to the ridge where you'll find a very large tree with a seriously aging rat's nest holding a single rap ring.

The ridge line will take you more than half a 60M rope, so plan on towing a 2nd line or rappelling to the aforementioned clump of trees before rapelling back to P1 anchors. Jul 20, 2009