Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Stan Wallace, Jim McEver, Ron Cousins in 1973
Page Views: 7,961 total · 52/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


106 Opinions

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Description

Can you see yourself in the starting holds? Generations of muddy-booted toproping campers have polished the footholds beyond all hope of repair.

Look for a handcrack that doesn't quite reach the ground. Avoiding the snot-slick opening feet by smearing arbitrarily on the face, thug your way into the crack proper and jam up to Stage Ledge. If you are a guide, or a camp counselor, rue the chopping of the convenience bolts and tediously rig a belay in the corner. Toss your toprope off, and spend the day encouraging your young charges to trust their feet despite the clearly impossible nature of the exhortation. 5.7+, 50'.

P2: Follow the corner off the left end of the ledge, escaping before it arches over. Belay in eyebrows when you feel like it.

P3: Meander left to the Gemini raps, 150'.

Location

Bloody Crack is located near the right end of the South Face, below a large ledge with 4th-class access at the right end.

Protection

No fixed gear. Standard rack.

Photos

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Another boulder problem route. Bring a crash pad and jump off after 15' and save yourself some time. Apr 19, 2010
Andy Kowles
Longtuckles
 
Andy Kowles   Longtuckles
 
Haha on above comment. Fun to take this up all the way to the top with a 70m. Fun warmup pitch when you combine every good move.

Boo hoo hoo on the polished start. Oct 17, 2011
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Slick Willy Start, that rock has seen its share of use and its not hard to tell by its polish and shimmer. Even though it is a highly traveled route it is definitely worth a go, especially if your new to the South Face area. Another route where a crash pad is very easing on the mind and body.

  • If your going to climb at the South Face, just bring a crash pad or a couple soft fluffy bunnies, I mean buddies and save yourself some anxiety*
Oct 18, 2011