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Routes in Circus Wall

Air Show T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bimbo's Bulge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Break On Through T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connect-A-Crux T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sentinel Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zoo View T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Howard, Bruce Meneghin 1976 on-sight
Page Views: 7,484 total · 63/month
Shared By: Ben Sachs on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


94 Opinions

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Description

This route is probably as good as Zoo View on equally amazing rock. It is definitely a step up in difficulty as well. If you don't live in Winston-Salem or the Gunks, this might feel like 5.9...

Location

Circus Wall, far left. Climb Sentinel Chimney (which can be very scary if the face is wet) to a gear belay on the slab below the route. Follow obvious crack system to the top.

Protection

Bomber gear of your choosing the whole way on 2nd pitch. Tricams are nice at the 2nd crux. Rap Sentinel Buttress.

Photos

Tommy Howard always had a knack for coming up with route names. If I recall correctly, the name for this one was uttered during the first ascent: "this is pretty steep; hope I don't give you an air show" or something like that. Sep 22, 2009
Bruce, My name is Michael Hayes and I was your climbing partner and college roommate at NC State. Email me at mhayescon@comcast.net or call at 415 606 3141. Would love to hear from you. I am still climbing. Dec 2, 2009
Robert Hutchins
  5.8+
Robert Hutchins  
  5.8+
In my option, this route is far superior to Zoo View. Sustained, quality climbing with multiple moves near the grade, and a pump pushing the limits of 5.8 all by itself. Great introduction to Moore's gear and climbing style for visiting climber looking to do some of the more difficult routes, and a great option for the local looking to break into 5.9. Would put this in my top 3 of "5.8s" in the state. Dec 21, 2011
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.9
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.9
Great route and best 5.8-ish that I've done at Moore's. Oct 30, 2013
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9
I won’t contribute to the sandbag and lie on the grade. This is 5.9 and the best route of that grade at Moores Wall. Jan 22, 2018
Jill H.
Spartanburg, SC
Jill H.   Spartanburg, SC
Build the P1 anchor about 10 feet up and left from the bottom of the cave on some slabby ledges. There’s a vertical crack that takes gear. May 11, 2018
Michael Atlas
charlotte, nc
 
Michael Atlas   charlotte, nc
 
This route is absolutely awesome. In my opinion, a must do. We did the first pitch of sentinel buttress and used some of the beta here to seek out a gear belay in a thin horizontal @ about 7 pm to the left of the start of the route. I interpretted the start of the second "money pitch" to be where the broken crack system starts right after the egg wall and circus walls seem to meet over the sentinel chimney. The horizontal was IMO an excellent belay location as it gave the belayer direct line of sight to most of the climb as well as a comfy ledge to stand on.

The route itself is an absolutely blast and the first crux is a great warm up for the upper v1/2 (may be v2/v3 in humid conditions) "boulder-style" move that you need to do in order to send the open book second crux. The whole route protects really well and I would definitely recommend blasting up through the second crux, as opposed to taking advice from some other beta I have received about going left and skirting past the open book. We belayed from a fairly large healthy pine at the top of the route with a slung boulder as a second piece. Sep 3, 2018

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