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Routes in Cereal Buttress

Aunt Jemima T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bee Tree T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Born Again S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Call of the Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Capt Crunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Doug Reed Solo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Faith Based Initiative T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Frankenberry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frosted Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fruit Loops T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Samaritans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Granola T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Hungry Jack T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Peace T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jack Be Nimble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mennonite Surf Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Name Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Name Unknown (5.4) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Obamanation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petrified Frog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sea Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shredded Wheat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whisky For Breakfast T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Wylen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Brad Shaver, Grover Cable - 1976
Page Views: 14,201 total, 106/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Dec 18, 2006
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


158 Opinions

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Description

This beautiful flake formation will test your willpower, your stamina and your ability to jam your feet into cracks and still get them back out. For the grade, Frosted Flake is a strenuous lead.

Starting up a corner on easy ground, move up to a roof and traverse left until you get to the end of the roof where it turns into a left-facing corner/flake. Power up the corner (crux) on laybacks and the occasional jam, and on to the top.

Location

Starts about 40' right of Fruit Loops. Rap off the anchors.

Protection

Doubles in the medium to large cams (3-3.5"), otherwise small to medium gear. Bolted anchors.
I had always meant to do this route. I finally did it with Cynthia Girand from Arizona. I did Granola, then this. I ran it out "A La Mode". Just get in a couple of good pieces at the bottom of the layback and go like hell! I don't remember the pump being to bad, but it was there. I'm pretty skinny, so I wasn't hauling up as much weight as others might. I did consider jamming it, but I felt like it would be wiser to lie back it. But I know one guy who fell off it and broke his leg. Those with some jamming experience could do it with less risk. Be careful! After this and Granola, we went to Fruit Loops to watch Thorin fall out of the sky. Oct 18, 2017
Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
 
Nathan Stegenga   Spokane, WA
 
+1 Jamming the crux corner.

I tried lying it back last year, and it whooped me (ashamedly on TR). Came back this year after doing some crack climbing out west, and I can't imagine wanting to lieback that thing ever again. The jams are, well, PERFECT. Jamming it also puts you in a great position to place gear to climb this route safely - you're placing gear blind if you lieback it. Sounds like a lot of people run it out to the rest stance above the crux section - that's a BIG fall if you blow it. If that's your style, go for it. Just a heads up to those who are thinking about leading this for the first time. Enjoy one of NC's classics! Jan 25, 2017
Wow! What a great route!! Couldn't get the grin off my face once I started the crack. One of my favorite single pitches in the state. Jan 4, 2016
Adam Kunis
Athens/Plymouth
 
Adam Kunis   Athens/Plymouth
 
Had a blast climbing this route this past weekend. Fun solid crux that I found easier to jam than lie back. I also did it with a single rack up to a 4 and got two bomber hex placements on it. If you're comfortable on the grade and in the area definitely do it. Nov 16, 2015
Sam Golden
melbourne, FL
 
Sam Golden   melbourne, FL
 
5.9 or 5.9+ felt right for this, I jammed the crux section but the angle of it I believe gets the +... Anyway great climb I had a lot of fun on this! Mar 31, 2015
Pulldownfrenzy
Visalia, CA
Pulldownfrenzy   Visalia, CA
I climbed this November 22, 2014. I have big hands and got solid hand jams and good friction smears augmented by a few foot jams at the beginning.

I understand the controversy w.r.t. grade - it is very difficult to rate a crack climb in an area without many cracks! Were I to have no experience with cracks I would have said it was tough for the grade.

That said, being from California I have a lot of experience with crack climbing and found it appropriate for the grade, although strenuous through the crux. I placed a piece RIGHT at the corner and didn't protect the entire crux all the way through - exhilarating for both the leader and the beleyer.

DO NOT lead this unless you are either very strong at the grade or an experienced crack climber. TONS of fun though - favorite climb in the area. Nov 24, 2014
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.9+
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.9+
One word...Classic! I would recommend bringing two #4 Camalots (in addition to two #3s) for the upper section after climbing through the vertical flake/crack. May 9, 2014
Spencer.herr
Asheville NC
Spencer.herr   Asheville NC
my climbing partner took a 20 footer! he was hurt so we packed up and limped out. I left a bd #3 just below the crux if anyone is headed out there over the next few days and can grab it I would appreciate it! I can't get back out there for a while. if you end up with it just message me. thanks Oct 15, 2013
nickehman
Fresno, CA
  5.9
nickehman   Fresno, CA
  5.9
What a fun route! Jammed it straight in with small cups and the hip scum and had no problems. 5.9 felt right. Although it was only 20 ft. of business, the business was worth it Mar 20, 2013
Kevin DB
  5.9+
Kevin DB  
  5.9+
What a rad and incredibly aesthetic line. Even without the beautiful splitter it has rad climbing on it. I'm not so sure on difficulty, I've climbed a lot in Indian Creek and I think 5.9+ is a fair grade on this. Probably harder if you did the insanity of lying it back. Jan 22, 2013
Robert Hutchins  
  5.9
@JohnWesely
I also like this route as well or better than Shredded Wheat. Neither have the length of quality climbing to be mega-classic, but this has a little more at the grade. As far as Jamming, I agree with Stefanie and Nick that this isn't particularly stout compared to western cracks of the same grade. I tend to jam from a lieback possition on this, but if you feel really secure in the jams you can actually straight-in jam it and catch a good hip scum that takes much of the pump away, as you aren't being physical with it, and are taking weight off. Dec 21, 2011
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
After doing it a few times, I really think Frosted Flake is the best route on the wall, even better than Shredded Wheat. As for Jamming Vs. Lie Backing. Having done it both ways, I felt like it was more strenuous to jam. You can place gear till your heart is content and would probably never fall out of the locker jams, but doing the runout lie back is much less strenuous. Oct 31, 2011
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.9
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.9
Great fun... only complaint is that the perfect hands don't go on forever!

And they are really PERFECT HANDS! I can't believe anyone would lieback that thing... crazyness. Dec 12, 2010
Austin Cooner
  5.9
Austin Cooner  
  5.9
awesome route... definitely pump through the crux section after pulling the roof and just GO till you get to better holds to make your next gear placement! It's really not that hard! Jul 20, 2009
I took some big falls one day trying to get a #3 close to the top of the lie back. It's not worth it, just keep haulin. Great route Oct 2, 2008
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.9-
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.9-
First time I led it, in fall '05, I liebacked the whole thing and nearly wet myself running it out--it's hard to stop and place gear that way! After going to Yosemite last summer (and the T Wall a bunch), I came back and jammed the hell out of it! Really awesome locker hands and cups with great body smears and some stems. This way is probably 5.9-. Liebacking the whole thing is hard. Apr 29, 2008
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Agreed. Cracks are generally a rare occurrence here in NC, so most of them inevitably get rated harder than they actually are. Most people lieback that thing... That probably is a 9+, or harder. Jan 4, 2008
Stefanie Van Wychen
Denver, CO
Stefanie Van Wychen   Denver, CO
I thought this felt more like a 5.9-, but I have done a lot of crack climbing. I have medium size hands for a girl and was getting big cups and awesome feet. The upper wide section can be laid back as there are feet on the wall to make it easier... Apr 15, 2007