Frosted Flake [Suggest Change]

I thought this felt more like a 5.9-, but I have done a lot of crack climbing. I have medium size hands for a girl and was getting big cups and awesome feet. The upper wide section can be laid back as there are feet on the wall to make it easier... Apr 15, 2007

Agreed. Cracks are generally a rare occurrence here in NC, so most of them inevitably get rated harder than they actually are. Most people lieback that thing... That probably is a 9+, or harder. Jan 4, 2008

First time I led it, in fall '05, I liebacked the whole thing and nearly wet myself running it out--it's hard to stop and place gear that way! After going to Yosemite last summer (and the T Wall a bunch), I came back and jammed the hell out of it! Really awesome locker hands and cups with great body smears and some stems. This way is probably 5.9-. Liebacking the whole thing is hard. Apr 29, 2008

I took some big falls one day trying to get a #3 close to the top of the lie back. It's not worth it, just keep haulin. Great route Oct 2, 2008

awesome route... definitely pump through the crux section after pulling the roof and just GO till you get to better holds to make your next gear placement! It's really not that hard! Jul 20, 2009

Great fun... only complaint is that the perfect hands don't go on forever!

And they are really PERFECT HANDS! I can't believe anyone would lieback that thing... crazyness. Dec 12, 2010

After doing it a few times, I really think Frosted Flake is the best route on the wall, even better than Shredded Wheat. As for Jamming Vs. Lie Backing. Having done it both ways, I felt like it was more strenuous to jam. You can place gear till your heart is content and would probably never fall out of the locker jams, but doing the runout lie back is much less strenuous. Oct 31, 2011

@JohnWesely
I also like this route as well or better than Shredded Wheat. Neither have the length of quality climbing to be mega-classic, but this has a little more at the grade. As far as Jamming, I agree with Stefanie and Nick that this isn't particularly stout compared to western cracks of the same grade. I tend to jam from a lieback possition on this, but if you feel really secure in the jams you can actually straight-in jam it and catch a good hip scum that takes much of the pump away, as you aren't being physical with it, and are taking weight off. Dec 21, 2011

What a rad and incredibly aesthetic line. Even without the beautiful splitter it has rad climbing on it. I'm not so sure on difficulty, I've climbed a lot in Indian Creek and I think 5.9+ is a fair grade on this. Probably harder if you did the insanity of lying it back. Jan 22, 2013

What a fun route! Jammed it straight in with small cups and the hip scum and had no problems. 5.9 felt right. Although it was only 20 ft. of business, the business was worth it Mar 20, 2013

my climbing partner took a 20 footer! he was hurt so we packed up and limped out. I left a bd #3 just below the crux if anyone is headed out there over the next few days and can grab it I would appreciate it! I can't get back out there for a while. if you end up with it just message me. thanks Oct 15, 2013

One word...Classic! I would recommend bringing two #4 Camalots (in addition to two #3s) for the upper section after climbing through the vertical flake/crack. May 9, 2014

I climbed this November 22, 2014. I have big hands and got solid hand jams and good friction smears augmented by a few foot jams at the beginning.

I understand the controversy w.r.t. grade - it is very difficult to rate a crack climb in an area without many cracks! Were I to have no experience with cracks I would have said it was tough for the grade.

That said, being from California I have a lot of experience with crack climbing and found it appropriate for the grade, although strenuous through the crux. I placed a piece RIGHT at the corner and didn't protect the entire crux all the way through - exhilarating for both the leader and the beleyer.

DO NOT lead this unless you are either very strong at the grade or an experienced crack climber. TONS of fun though - favorite climb in the area. Nov 24, 2014

5.9 or 5.9+ felt right for this, I jammed the crux section but the angle of it I believe gets the +... Anyway great climb I had a lot of fun on this! Mar 31, 2015

Had a blast climbing this route this past weekend. Fun solid crux that I found easier to jam than lie back. I also did it with a single rack up to a 4 and got two bomber hex placements on it. If you're comfortable on the grade and in the area definitely do it. Nov 16, 2015

Wow! What a great route!! Couldn't get the grin off my face once I started the crack. One of my favorite single pitches in the state. Jan 4, 2016

+1 Jamming the crux corner.

I tried lying it back last year, and it whooped me (ashamedly on TR). Came back this year after doing some crack climbing out west, and I can't imagine wanting to lieback that thing ever again. The jams are, well, PERFECT. Jamming it also puts you in a great position to place gear to climb this route safely - you're placing gear blind if you lieback it. Sounds like a lot of people run it out to the rest stance above the crux section - that's a BIG fall if you blow it. If that's your style, go for it. Just a heads up to those who are thinking about leading this for the first time. Enjoy one of NC's classics! Jan 25, 2017

I had always meant to do this route. I finally did it with Cynthia Girand from Arizona. I did Granola, then this. I ran it out "A La Mode". Just get in a couple of good pieces at the bottom of the layback and go like hell! I don't remember the pump being to bad, but it was there. I'm pretty skinny, so I wasn't hauling up as much weight as others might. I did consider jamming it, but I felt like it would be wiser to lie back it. But I know one guy who fell off it and broke his leg. Those with some jamming experience could do it with less risk. Be careful! After this and Granola, we went to Fruit Loops to watch Thorin fall out of the sky. Oct 18, 2017

The route is pretty straightforward if you know how to jam. I can't imagine doing a lay back on it while leading. The hand crack is deceptively steep, probably where the + comes from. Overall, I thought Granola was harder. One of the best routes I have done in North Carolina. Feb 4, 2018