Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Chatfield, Fess Green - 1965
Page Views: 50,233 total · 301/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potentially Closed Due to COVID-19 - Please check for closures before going and DO NOT TRESPASS! / 2020 Raptor Closures on the Nantahala-Pisgah LIFTED Details

Description

The Great Arch is probably the most prominent and noticeable feature on the face of Stone Mountain. It's a huge right-facing dihedral that arches almost to the summit of the mountain from the Tree Ledge. It's also one of the earliest routes here, put up in the days before cams and sticky rubber climbing shoes.

Unlike the typical runout Stone Mountain friction climb, The Great Arch is one of the few climbs here that has plentiful protection. A real classic, it's very popular and guaranteed to be crowded on weekends -- so arrive early to avoid long waits.

P1 -- starting at the base of the arch, climb the dihedral using the hand/finger crack and good friction footwork to a bolted belay. 5.5, ~110'.
P2 -- continue up the crack and dihedral, slinging trees for pro if you like, to a bolted belay. 5.5, ~120'.
P3 -- follow the diminishing arch to its end on easy ground. Clip a single bolt and finish at the final bolted anchors. 5.3, ~120'.

Location

To get to The Great Arch, gain the Tree Ledge using any of the approach routes, such as Direct Start, Block Route, or U Slot. The start is easy to locate at the left end of the Tree Ledge. Rap off with double ropes or walk off the trail from the summit.

Protection

As noted, this route is easy to protect with a standard rack (medium cams or passive pro) and some slings for the trees that grow out of the crack. Belays and anchors at the top are bolted.

Photos