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Routes in Amphitheater
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All Tough: No Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Baby's Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Brothers Start T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Cryptic Trip T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Daddy, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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False Mummy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Good Heavens T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Good Heavens Prow T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Good Heavens variation (a.k.a. Cave variation) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grimy, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heckfire Left var. T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Holy Moses T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Iguana Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Land of the little people T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Limey, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost in Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 |
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Mummy, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Open Book, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Out of sight out of mind T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prow (lower pitches), The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prow Right, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prow, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rattlesnake Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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S. D. Modiano T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Short Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sister Seagull T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Skunk Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trinidad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Turkey Beard T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Art Williams, Mike Holloway - 1972 |
| Page Views: | 58,455 total · 269/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Nov 6, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
60m rope description:
P1: begin in small gully, climb up left facing cracks. Venture to obvious large ledge (could belay here). Continue straight up from ledge another ~35 feet to horizontal crack. Build anchor in horizontal crack and stand on small vegetated ledge. (~180')
P2: climb directly above anchor on jugs for about 15 feet to right trending ramp which leads to a tree. Gain left trending ledge which begins just above tree, follow this to (and slightly beyond) another small tree. Place around here (and not before it) on this pitch to avoid rope drag that would be caused by placing anywhere along the 5.3 traversing bits below. (Alternatively, place gear on the traversing bits and stop to belay on the left trending ledge.) The remainder of the pitch trends up and slightly to the right from here. Continue up the obvious route on jugs to small alcove. Build comfortable belay in alcove. (~180')
P3: Exit alcove up and right, climbing towards obvious splitter crack. Climb crack and finish route on ~20ft of jugs. (~60')
Descent: Upon topping out, walk to the right side of the feature. Rap down gully (currently anchor + fixed pink rope) or walk off top.
Location
Across the Ampitheater from the Prow. Head down into the Ampitheater via the descent gully, and keep toward the southern face. Go past the Mummy and around the corner until you can see a wide, left facing flake above the treeline. This is the top of the first pitch. Start on easy ground below the flake/crack.
Walk off to the left.
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