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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,409 total, 100/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A real gem for the grade, Wailing Wall may bring back memories of the Gunks if you've ever led High E. The amazing holds and great protection on the steep face are matched only by the exposure.

Starting at the left end of the Amphitheatre, either begin by climbing a chimney right of the arete, or (more exciting) climb the nice arete itself. Continue up level with the base of a roof, then move left onto the exposed face and straight up through a notch to the trees.

Location

Starts just right of the arete at the left end of the Amphitheatre. To rappel, scramble up and over from the topout ledge to a gully; move carefully down the gully to rap from fixed gear.

Protection

Mostly medium gear; tricams are very useful. Build a gear anchor and/or sling trees.
Getting started and transitioning to the face out of the chimney is the crux, the rest is all cruiser climbing. Great holds, gear, and exposure. The 10a roof finish out right looks pretty awesome. Save a #2 for up high and watch for loose blocks as you run it out to the top. Scramble up a few feet and head climber's right down into a small gully to find a fixed nut rap anchor. Sep 10, 2017
.
Asheville NC
 
.   Asheville NC
 
Wasp building nest 20 ft up as you transition onto left side from crack. Was just messing around and noticed 2 very very loose microwave sized blocks to the right of p2 mid way up. Super dangerous! Jun 18, 2017
This is a ridiculously fun rock climb. Beyond classic -- and to go at 5.6.... wow... thank you Moore's. The aesthetic beauty and quality of the rock, is simply something to behold on this dreamy out of this world line. You will not even be aware of anything else of life other than being on the sharp end on this gem!. Jun 19, 2016
smurray47
  5.6
smurray47  
  5.6
By far the best 5.6 at Moore's. Great climb to get on your first time in the area, or as a warm-up your 20th visit. Eats up gear and is very safe. Crux is probably the start, and you'll be out of sight for the finish, so make sure your second is going to push through it if they're not a climber. Belay from the top, descend either via the somewhat questionable Wailing Wall anchors, or scramble over to the Golden Earring anchors which inspire a little more confidence. Apr 30, 2016
The anchor consists of at least three passive pieces on stainless steel cable, and is up on the wall above a notch. It was still there late Fall when I climbed it last. The anchor is not located where you top out. You have to step cliff right over the notch where you top-out and scramble back cliff-right over the little "hill" of rock and down the short slab. To locate it, just think of where the anchor would need to be to leave you 15'-25' uphill of the start of the climb when you rap. I'm guessing people just don't think to look down the slab to locate it. Feb 5, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
A great line with great exposure, and plentiful protection. It stays on grade for almost the entire climb, only backing off as you approach the top. The rock on the upper face is really pretty, too.

I looked for the rap anchors Robert Hutchins mentioned, but I did not find them. I imagine they have been worn down and/or cut in the intervening years since his post.

EDIT: I have since found the rap anchors. Once you top out, go straight back and drop into a small ravine. Take a right, down the ravine, and around some trees/shrubs, to a lower level of the ravine. From here, the anchor is about 4 nuts in a horizontal crack 10 feet up on the left wall, over the edge. Nov 1, 2015
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.6
Vince Buffalini   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.6
A classic. turn the corner at the halfway point onto the beautiful exposed face with horizontals reminiscent of the gunks Jan 1, 2015
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
GWB,

Who knows when that thing was first done... I did that finish myself a few years back (maybe 10 or so), and remember it feeling about 10a, but I could be wrong as my memory is a bit fuzzy. May 14, 2012
GWB
 
GWB  
 
I'm wondering if anyone has tried a variation finish that kicks the grade up a few grades. The finish I've done goes up the L shape weakness seen on the right side here in this photo. It is a lot of fun but would recommend doing the climb in 2 pitches due to the rope drag created when clearing the lip. Similar difficulty to Raise Hell IMO. May 14, 2012
Sorry to hear that S.Fischer. You might want to check the length
of your rope. It's a good thing that you didn't try the Q.State anchor with the rope, as it sounds like it wouldn't have been close to reaching. The only other possible way I can think of that wouldn't leave you with rope on the ground would be if the rope was dropped significantly cliff-left in the notch and left you down-hill a little bit. Apr 3, 2012
Great climb. The crux is certainly down low at the start. I made a gear anchor on a small ledge after moving left, just below the face. Great exposure and great holds everywhere.

I tried using the rings that Robert Hutchins mentions and sadly my 60m did not make it to the bottom even with rope stretch. Be sure to tie knots in the ends if you try it. Apr 2, 2012
Will Copeland
Driggs
Will Copeland   Driggs
starting the first 15-20 feet on the other side of the arete bumps this one up a notch! Mar 16, 2012
I removed an old angle pin from this route in 1980. It was probably first climbed in the early 70s or earlier. Jan 21, 2012
No need to go all the way to the Quaker State anchor to rap off if you only have a single 60m rope. After toping out, just head a back and a little to the right. Drop down into the natural recess and you will find an anchor that will take you back to within about 15' of start of the climb. Dec 21, 2011
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
The exposure and unique rock on the billboard face are truly classic. Sling your pro and try not to place gear to your right to ease drag before turning the corner. If you only have a single 60, you can scramble right to rap from the Quaker State/Golden Earring anchors. Nov 8, 2011
We climbed this last week its an awesome climb. A lot of exposure and an awesome climb, a lot of fun. Just watch out for the rope drag. Jul 20, 2011
vanishing spy
  5.6
vanishing spy  
  5.6
Sigh,My first Trad lead. Super awesome route and worth getting on no matter how hard you climb. Feb 27, 2009
Mike Flanagan
Redlands, CA
Mike Flanagan   Redlands, CA
classic moderate Oct 26, 2008
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
To the best of my knowledge, a couple guys from the Raleigh area used to climb this route all the time before anyone else ever claimed an ascent. Cannot remember their last names, but they called themselves "Lewis and Clark". It's likely that they did the FA. Nov 8, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
This is a fantastic climb; the exposure is almost as good as Zoo View, and you can't believe how nice the holds and pro are on the face section. Starting on the arete instead of the chimney adds to the fun. Sep 4, 2007