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Routes in The Amphitheater

A Walk in the Light T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aid Raid T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aloof Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Comic Book Heros T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Command Performance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Do or Dive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Doan's Pills T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Excellent Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Love T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gutterball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
High Wire T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Into The Wild T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Nuclear Crayon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Quaker State T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raise Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shit Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stab in the Dark T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Step and Fetch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
U-Haul T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
World War Z T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Zombie Woof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Seth Tart / Dennis Buice
Page Views: 728 total · 16/month
Shared By: S Tart on Nov 7, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This line could not be more appropriately named; for it is all about the experience and not the grade. Minus the first blocky 25 feet, this climb is really amazing and well worth the venture if your up for the challenge. Rack up for some chimney, face, dihedral, roof and arete climbing through massive amounts of exposure. This route belongs at Moores.

Climb the right side of the back amphitheatre wall, as if to climb Highwire. Make your way right into the cave feature 25' up the chimney. There's plenty of small cams hidden within the small cracks of the right chimney wall. Climb the chimney, then out left onto the face and up a small dihedral. Make sure your pro is good before the technical runout up the face leads to a strenuous stance beneath the roof. Get some tough to place gear in a slot out left underneath the roof on a 48" runner and a quickdraw. Less than this will cause rope drag. Pull right around the roof and into a good stance in the 'dish' feature. Get your wits about you before venturing up and left across the belly of the prow to the super high exposure of the prow's arete. Turn the left side of the arete to the headwall above and climb straight up the face to the top.

Location

Left of Breaking Rocks, on the adjacent wall.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3" with multiple 1/2" and 3/4" cams. A couple micro cams are useful, as well as an assortment of slings.

Photos

Though we took a little different start, Tim Fisher and I did this route about 12 years ago. I'll have to check on the name. The original grade was 5.8+, but I think that was a bit of a sandbag. Felt more like 5.9 PG13 May 27, 2016
The first 100' of this climb had never been done, unless you missed all the loose blocks that had to be trundled into the amphitheater to make it safe and climbable. There is a 25' runout between your last piece of gear on the face and the slot beneath the roof of the prow, I think most people would classify that as R as you would not want to take that fall. I would agree that the prow is PG13, however there is a series of moves to get established on the prow that would tax a 5.9 climber both physically and mentally. If you guys traversed in from the anchors of Stab or feel you put up a different variation or link up then feel free to post it as such. Jul 14, 2016
Hey Dennis, we climbed the crack a little left of Doan's Pills to access that dish feature. We took a different pitch (probably Stab) up to the ledge, but I've seen the chimney climbed by others. I had actually climbed the same crack back in the mid 90s, but this time we cut left into the described feature under Zombie. Perhaps on your ascent you climbed a slightly more direct path a few feet to the left of the crack I'm describing? Above the chimney your rope line in the picture exactly follows ours. Whatever the case, the real adventure climbing sound the same, though I'll be we used a different exit. We did a very heads up face traverse into the High Wire flake after pulling out of that dish feature. Our finish was very exciting because there was no gear and the rock was dirty from never being traveled, but would not be particularly hard if cleaned up. Jul 21, 2016
S Tart
  5.10-
S Tart  
  5.10-
Robert, these are different lines than 'Wild'. They are traversing link-ups using multiple established routes and traversing in from 100' up another wall. I don't doubt for a second that the dihedral chimney has been climbed but it goes right which is why it's a very small part of 'Wild'. Mountain Project at least keeps us informed so that everyone knows what's going on. So if routes are posted we will not have these inevitable misunderstandings. Jul 26, 2016
I would have commented year ago, if I had any idea this was even posted. I don't need to look to MP to get beta for any routes I do at Moore's. I just happened to be bored and noticed it in the listing for the first time recently. If you look at my post history, you can tell that I have large gaps without posting anything, and most come in a flurry when I'm killing time traveling. Let's be honest, the meat of this route is the traverse through the dish. Otherwise, it wouldn't even have this name. I can't say for sure where you exited, and listed the way we did, but that doesn't mean too much to me. Are you doing different routes if you finish on the straight up arete feature on Quaker State, relative to moving right into easier ground, or the face on Do Or Dive? Those are after the primary feature. As far as the bottom/entrance nearly every vertical inch of the bottom of that wall has been climbed numerous times if you aren't contriving the spacing to less than 4', and none of it, in my opinion, is enough differentiation to call the features above different route; they are just alternate starts. I'll withhold my opinion of what I think about naming small variation and linkup to climbs when no significant additional ground is covered.

I didn't post the original comment to start a pissing contest, and went out of my way to be congenial in my follow-up post to a post far less so. As far as not submitting the route earlier, why should I have? I don't submit every climb or variation of a climb I've done? For people who get their Moore's Wall route info from MP, there are far more suitable classic lines than this one. This climb was done well before MP even existed, and almost a decade before I it new it existed. Jul 26, 2016
S Tart
  5.10-
S Tart  
  5.10-
The meat of the climb and the 'R' is the face, not the dish traverse. The dish is spicy but not bad climbing, although that is where the fun exposure is. If the dish were the meat then I would agree with all your above. We have differing opinions and that is ok but I think all of this should just be tossed. I doubt any of this reflects our general character and nature and I really doubt anyone wants to have to read it. Jul 27, 2016

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